Jump to content
SAU Community

Strengthening A Rb26 Block

legzy86

By legzy86,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

legzy86 Enthusiast

legzy86

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, Im currently under going a new build on my R32 GTR with the build aimed for a little street use but mainly the drag strip. My main worry at the moment is spliting the standard block. Has anyone on here had any experience with half grout filling of RB26s and any reports of running temperatures and any other feed back would be great!!

Cheers Simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429446-strengthening-a-rb26-block/
Share on other sites
legzy86 Enthusiast

legzy86

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All ready spent the money on having this block treated and machined. Not to keen on forking and doing it all again hence the reason I want to know if anyone has half filled them. Personally I think it will be stronger then a N1 and I cant see there being a problem with overheating but would be good to hear from someone who has actually done it.

Joshbigt62r Proficient

Joshbigt62r

Posted
Posted

Majority of the temperature comes from the cylinder head anyway. You should have no problems filling the bottom end up to around 1/3. Call up some race engine builders and talk to them about it.

Josh.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

I have a reasoably stout set up in my GTR.

I chose to keep the standard matching numbers block in my car.

My aim is over 500rwkw, so I chose to part grout fill my block. If it's a street car, you will need to plan your cooling system very carefully. Most of they guys I have spoken to with grout filled blocks run a stock water pump with the stock pully.

I have also chosen to use a specialised coolant and twin pass radiator.

Cheers

Justin

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

It actually makes the cooling process more efficient.... however, your oil temps will go up as a result of no lower block cooling.

The main issue is loss or coolant volume.

Cheers

Justin

legzy86 Enthusiast

legzy86

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the feed back!! XRATED have you done much driving in yours to see how the temperature sits? I was planning on going to the top of the welch plugs which is pretty much half. Obviously im also running a large oil cooler and koyo radiator which will also help.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the feed back!! XRATED have you done much driving in yours to see how the temperature sits? I was planning on going to the top of the welch plugs which is pretty much half. Obviously im also running a large oil cooler and koyo radiator which will also help.

Mine only has an issue when at idle and/or low revs/low speed. but I'm using an N1 water pump and under drive pulley. I knew I was going to have an issue, but I wanted to experiment with it.

I have a Racepace twin pass rad, with the stock clutch fan/shroud... but the N1 pump just can't flow enough water at low engine speed, especially with the under drive pulley.

If I was running e85, I might be able to get away with it??? as combustion temp's would be lower.

I know of 3 high hp rb's that are hardblocked up to the welsh plugs (going above the welsh plugs is a lot harder) that run perfectly cool at low speed with the right set up.

Cheers

Justin

wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted

running hardblock to bottom of the welsh plugs. n1 pump (no underdrive) & 50mm radiator. No cooling issues at all with street driving, car warms up quicker, but normal temps are the same as before engine build

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Have had 2 blocks. Both filled at least 1/4, no temp issues to speak of.

Both were street driven with N1 water/oil pumps & using a decent tri-radiator (once was Racepace, one was Race Radiators) both @ 360-380rwkw.

Ambient temp - 20 degrees
Water temp - 70-74 degrees. heavy traffic 78
Oil temps (inc oil cooler) - constant 80-82, wouldn't budge

Won't be a problem IMO for daily driving as power isn't really relevant when putting around in traffic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...