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Strengthening A Rb26 Block


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Hi guys, Im currently under going a new build on my R32 GTR with the build aimed for a little street use but mainly the drag strip. My main worry at the moment is spliting the standard block. Has anyone on here had any experience with half grout filling of RB26s and any reports of running temperatures and any other feed back would be great!!

Cheers Simon.

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Last setup went 10.80 in full street trim. Mid to low 9s then work down from there. I personally know of 2 blocks splitting.. One at 620kw and another at jst shy of 680kw.

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All ready spent the money on having this block treated and machined. Not to keen on forking and doing it all again hence the reason I want to know if anyone has half filled them. Personally I think it will be stronger then a N1 and I cant see there being a problem with overheating but would be good to hear from someone who has actually done it.

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Majority of the temperature comes from the cylinder head anyway. You should have no problems filling the bottom end up to around 1/3. Call up some race engine builders and talk to them about it.

Josh.

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I have a reasoably stout set up in my GTR.

I chose to keep the standard matching numbers block in my car.

My aim is over 500rwkw, so I chose to part grout fill my block. If it's a street car, you will need to plan your cooling system very carefully. Most of they guys I have spoken to with grout filled blocks run a stock water pump with the stock pully.

I have also chosen to use a specialised coolant and twin pass radiator.

Cheers

Justin

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I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

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I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

It actually makes the cooling process more efficient.... however, your oil temps will go up as a result of no lower block cooling.

The main issue is loss or coolant volume.

Cheers

Justin

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Thanks for the feed back!! XRATED have you done much driving in yours to see how the temperature sits? I was planning on going to the top of the welch plugs which is pretty much half. Obviously im also running a large oil cooler and koyo radiator which will also help.

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Thanks for the feed back!! XRATED have you done much driving in yours to see how the temperature sits? I was planning on going to the top of the welch plugs which is pretty much half. Obviously im also running a large oil cooler and koyo radiator which will also help.

Mine only has an issue when at idle and/or low revs/low speed. but I'm using an N1 water pump and under drive pulley. I knew I was going to have an issue, but I wanted to experiment with it.

I have a Racepace twin pass rad, with the stock clutch fan/shroud... but the N1 pump just can't flow enough water at low engine speed, especially with the under drive pulley.

If I was running e85, I might be able to get away with it??? as combustion temp's would be lower.

I know of 3 high hp rb's that are hardblocked up to the welsh plugs (going above the welsh plugs is a lot harder) that run perfectly cool at low speed with the right set up.

Cheers

Justin

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Have had 2 blocks. Both filled at least 1/4, no temp issues to speak of.

Both were street driven with N1 water/oil pumps & using a decent tri-radiator (once was Racepace, one was Race Radiators) both @ 360-380rwkw.

Ambient temp - 20 degrees
Water temp - 70-74 degrees. heavy traffic 78
Oil temps (inc oil cooler) - constant 80-82, wouldn't budge

Won't be a problem IMO for daily driving as power isn't really relevant when putting around in traffic.

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