Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

tailshafts don't chatter they just explode. don't ask how I know. not in an R33 thankfully :)

it's probably suspension or subframe movement, lots of cars do it. usually it just means you've been a big girls blouse and haven't broken traction properly. half-arsed = chatter.

  • Like 1

Considering a diff rebuilt kit i 300 shipped and labor to shim/rebuilt it would easily be 3-4 hours at 90$/hour. wouldn't buying an used cusco diff be a wiser move ??

Actually the question I should ask is : does OEM diff lsd break with time or they work just as good till the break and don't work at all ?

GTR or GTSt?

GTR is a mechanical diff. Any mech diff (except for helicals) relies on friction to provide the limiting action. A such, as the plates/cones/whatevers wear they gradually stop providing the limiting action.

GTSt is viscous. These things are marginally useful as an LSD when brand new and when presented with stock power/torque and stock skinny tyres with original hard compounds. Fast forward 20 years, add 150000+ km, add wider wheels with sticky rubber and wind up the boost or work the tits off the motor......and wonder why they don't offer proper LSD action.

Tailshaft chatter is not the same as axle tramp, if you feel it you know what I mean it's pretty ugly- just as bad as axle tramp!

Every cusco I have been in has been rough as guts although apparently these can be retuned to not be so savage.

Got the Nismo 2 way detuned and put together in my R33 housing so fun times ahead should slap it in within the next fortnight ;)

Tailshaft chatter is not the same as axle tramp, if you feel it you know what I mean it's pretty ugly- just as bad as axle tramp!

Every cusco I have been in has been rough as guts although apparently these can be retuned to not be so savage.

Got the Nismo 2 way detuned and put together in my R33 housing so fun times ahead should slap it in within the next fortnight ;)

You're going to love it Nic, nothing beats a real diff... people say that shimmed diffs are just as good haven't driven a car with a real diff

would there be much difference between a shimmed r200 and a welded r180? debating on whether i should get my r200 rebuilt and put it back in ? welded has been great, just a bit of understeer

I'm keen to point out again that when R31Nismoid says "shimmed" he usually means a shimmed mechanical R200 like in a GTR. Other people talking about a "shimmed" diff are usually talking about a viscous R200, which is not a good technical solution. The two concepts (and the results) are not exactly the same. A shimmed mechanical diff is just a mech diff that has been tightened up a bit. A shimmed viscous diff is a crappy piece of poo that has had an additional wear surface put in it, where there isn't supposed to be one.

Edited by GTSBoy

I have shimmed about 4 viscous Diffs and only was truly happy with one of them, really have to play around with the shim thickness to hit that sweet spot of between not too savage and no peg leg action.

This takes a lot of patience hence why I CBF anymore and just want a solution I hopefully won't have to revisit

So viscous shim is only good as its good bang for buck- but 99% of the the time just know that diff will be coming back out!

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys.

I'm wondering if anyone could identify this diff? (rather then start another thread). Planning an upgrade for the 32 and have spotted this; 4.3, 4 bolt rear R200 with 5 bolt shafts, s13 front housing.

2wayunknowndiff2_zps6ee3679a.jpg

2waydiffunknown_zpsc0713e85.jpg

Hey guys.

I'm wondering if anyone could identify this diff? (rather then start another thread). Planning an upgrade for the 32 and have spotted this; 4.3, 4 bolt rear R200 with 5 bolt shafts, s13 front housing.

Looks like a 2-way. Not sure of brand.

It looks a lot like an OS-Giken. OS-Gikens should have the logo on the crownwheel bolt side of the housing.

But really, it also looks like Tomei, Nismo, and whatever else. You really need to find some markings.

Edited by GTSBoy

Hey guys.

I'm wondering if anyone could identify this diff? (rather then start another thread). Planning an upgrade for the 32 and have spotted this; 4.3, 4 bolt rear R200 with 5 bolt shafts, s13 front housing.

should be some part numbers on there somewhere if you look. that will help determine.

Get a front on photo of the whole in the centre - will tell show more if its a 2way or 1.5 etc.

Just an update, got my Nismo 2way detuned by a place here in Sydney- apparently reduces the harshness but maintains lock to improve drivability, and got some good oil put in.

Popped it back into the car and cannot stress how great it drives. Gives the odd clunk when cold but once it gets some oil through it drives as nice as a viscous LSD but with instant 2 wheel action as soon as the clutch drops.

Also gives the odd chirp on car park concrete which is no issue at all.

No shimmed LSD no matter how good (i thought) it was, was even anything close to as good as this.

Highly recommended I'm wrapped

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...