Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo 2 Way Lsd Vs Kaaz Vs Shimmed Lsd

donut_kng

By donut_kng,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

gwilkinson34
gwilkinson34

I just had a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way put in a couple days ago - and I can report that it shits all over the crappy viscous LSD I had. Tight turns (especially when cold) are a bit 'surgy/skippy' but it se

djr81
djr81

Did this. Diff stfu by the stated 85%. $100 well spent. Cheers.

Ben Mclean
Ben Mclean

Swapped over to OS Giken OS-250R 80w-250 LSD Oil to reduce chatter from my Nismo 1.5 GT Pro TT and it worked a treat. Thanks heaps for posting that Piggaz!!

gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
Posted

I just had a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way put in a couple days ago - and I can report that it shits all over the crappy viscous LSD I had. Tight turns (especially when cold) are a bit 'surgy/skippy' but it settles down when warm. No real clunks, and it's made a big difference to acceleration - even though it still lets go (e85 - 300rwkw) the car still accelerates through the wheelspin, instead of just breaking sideways or spinning one tyre to redline in a flash.

Very impressed so far.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

So since i am RWD and have never been in a car with a shimmed R33 GTR diff, if done well do we really expect it to get out performed by a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro. Its worth the extra money to me if traction is going to be better but...would a shimmed R33 diff be as good as the Kaaz 1.5 way I am running now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Good question, I had a spare R32 GTR diff rebuilt and tightened and put into my 34, I took car out Friday in RWD due to sensor issue and full noise in 2nd at 19psi ( was going to try 22psi but thought better of it ) it hooked up and took off with no wheel spin, on 275/35/19 Hankook RS-3s

It use to fry one back tyre till the 4WD kicked in then take off, has LSD up front

Link to comment
Share on other sites
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted (edited)

Exactly Paul - didn't see oil mentioned anywhere... Oil plays a massive factor.

I used the Castrol and my GT Pro (1.5) from the start, would still lock in a carpark @ low speed on the lowest setting with some accelerator, but I didn't mind it at all.

Could simply add some Penrite Friction Modifier if I wanted it to be more forgiving. Very much a personal preference type of thing the ole rear diff lock-up.

That said I've had shimmed R200 and a Nismo in a R200 - Nismo is certainly awesome, but take nothing away from a properly shimmed mechanical R200, they do very well for the amount of outlay.

How much of said modifier and is it a "permanent" thing - ie if it is too much does draining and refilling it with unmodified oil return it or is in in the plates for a while?

Get a front on photo of the whole in the centre - will tell show more if its a 2way or 1.5 etc.

Just an update, got my Nismo 2way detuned by a place here in Sydney- apparently reduces the harshness but maintains lock to improve drivability, and got some good oil put in.

Popped it back into the car and cannot stress how great it drives. Gives the odd clunk when cold but once it gets some oil through it drives as nice as a viscous LSD but with instant 2 wheel action as soon as the clutch drops.

Also gives the odd chirp on car park concrete which is no issue at all.

No shimmed LSD no matter how good (i thought) it was, was even anything close to as good as this.

Highly recommended � I'm wrapped

Who are these mysterious people?

Edited by djr81
Link to comment
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The friction modified is just an oil additive, so oil change (or more likely two) should just flush it out

And yeah the Nismo GT-Pro has settings, you can back them up or down depending on what you want.

If not a Pro, it'll just be a case of altering the diff plates

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
Posted

Hi Paul, I sent you some old worksheets ages ago that I got with the car yard when I bought it, one of the work sheets was from Advan Performance Auburn and they had installed a Nismo 2-way LSD , but after reading a lot of threads about LSDs I questioned that this could be a 2-way as I get no noises or clunks at any time.??

Got CRD to have a look while the car is in bits and he said he could not tell what brand it was but it was a strong one, whatever that means?

Even before when the car would not get going it used to chirp at near idol revs, I thought it was the OS Quad clutch doing this, the chirps stopped by the time I ran the car in.

It will be interesting to see what happens once I get it back with the other drive-train mods installed

Link to comment
Share on other sites
sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

So since i am RWD and have never been in a car with a shimmed R33 GTR diff, if done well do we really expect it to get out performed by a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro. Its worth the extra money to me if traction is going to be better but...would a shimmed R33 diff be as good as the Kaaz 1.5 way I am running now?

The problem with shimmed V-LSD is that they wear and need re-shimming. Even at their best they still aren't a proper LSD. I have a Nismo Pro 2 way set on the lowest preload. It's great, especially in the wet, very predictable. I was very lucky and got mine for $500

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The problem with shimmed V-LSD is that they wear and need re-shimming. Even at their best they still aren't a proper LSD. I have a Nismo Pro 2 way set on the lowest preload. It's great, especially in the wet, very predictable. I was very lucky and got mine for $500

Nobody said anything about a VLSD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Swapped over to OS Giken OS-250R 80w-250 LSD Oil to reduce chatter from my Nismo 1.5 GT Pro TT and it worked a treat. Thanks heaps for posting that Piggaz!!

:D. Good stuff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Daleo
      Exemplary Сasual Dating - Real Women

      By Daleo · Posted

      Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • joshuaho96
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...