Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would be avoiding flaring if possiible as it look like aids..

Have you tried a thorough roll and a good pull first?

how much camber are you running and what is the max you are willing to run?

Are you going to have any guard gap or do you wanto tuck rim?

How wide are the wheels and what tires size/ profile?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6959963
Share on other sites

Yes its terrible unless they are fully pumped, thats expensive as im not a panel beater

Well on the front, i was thinking of buying wide guards, easy fix right?

i havent tried anything yet, thats my first trial fit i dont even have tyres

And the rear... um... i wanted wide rubber, but ill have to see what i can do.

camber is stock i think, or close too.

would like a gap, but you need room for suspension travel too so????

the wheels are rays gtc 17x9 +35 on a 32 gtst

Bolt ons will be too wide, and im not having a piece of fibreglass glued to my body cos they crack.

so maybe gtr rear guards welded on,$$$$ hmmmm i need a plan d

after looking at google images, bolt ons for some reason seem the least offensive looking

maybe because like you said, others looks like aids

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6959993
Share on other sites

I just fitted wheels that sit out 15mm wider per side on my r33 18 x 9 + 20 and i REDUCED my camber thst was induced by lowering the car and i dont scrub.

If you cant roll guards yourself plenty on hear can or pay a shop $50 a corner to roll them you wont scrub.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960157
Share on other sites

for example, i dont mind this

attachicon.gif840B793D-E59F-43CA-B235-17B5C281CBD2-312-000000203F04B648_zpsec1c6a39.jpg

your right pete.. and i have adjustable upper front and rear arms & traction rods.

^^

That looks like it has aids. It's a Skyline not a Torana.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960208
Share on other sites

Ok ok.. youre right, and it wont suit what im going to do this summer. :ninja:

Ok so thanks for the input, good points made:

1 Flares, lips ect look sht on a 32

2 Camber will change as i put weight on the wheels

So ill try flattening the lip first and see how that goes. Adjust camber second, roll guards out last resort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960361
Share on other sites

I dont know

Theres heaps of room inside

I may do the front first, then put it on the back and see how much more i can go

Hmmm where to start?

9" = 228mm from inside bead

250mm from outside edge of rim

So i want at least a 255 on the back if i can, more even better.

And dont want less than......235 maybe front.

Profile should be at least 40, or diameter is too small.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960950
Share on other sites

Making a lipping / guard flaring tool.

It will have adjustable length and angle.

When i have finished using it, it will be for SAU act. That means anyone can have it just dont take it away from ACT region.

post-89755-0-64877900-1376036302_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6963134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...