Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree to some extent Artz, but I have seen dangerous hack jobs out there that scare the hell outta me. Can you imagine what may happen if one let go on an unsuspecting driver? Especially if map sensored...

I refuse to do them, as I don't have an oven large enough to pre-heat the plenum for decent penetration, and for the exact reason I mentioned above. Even welding in a secondary injector boss on my plenum was stressful enough for me.

I can't agree enough with GTSBOY. Just my opinion and I'm far from a engineer. But Nissan made things the way they are for a reason. Cut and shut is a no go. Plazmaman FTW....

Josh.

lol...fair enough..in this industry its another shitty RB motor that's gumma die sooner or later anyway...

With an attitude like this it's no wonder people kill motors.

"Cut and shut plenum she'll be right mate"

"The air will get in there somehow it'll be right mate"

"Give me a rich power tune she'll be right mate"

"I fitted one and my engine is 'fine' mate"

As an engineer myself I feel sorry for GTSBOY in this discussion. When you are actually designing something properly, "she'll be right" is an omission you don't know what the f&ck you're on about. He's doing his best to share knowledge and coming up against "let's bolt these 2 things together and see what happens".

RB's have a lot of margin in the design, that's why we see unopened RB25DET's doing 300rwkw all day long. If done PROPERLY there is no reason why this can't be reliable and have good longevity. But stick a shitty plenum in it, do a quick tune at 10:1 that ends up washing down the bores with petrol and you end up with a motor that eventually dies. It's the margin that lets you "she'll be right" it and you will get away with it.. for a while.. but the engine is not happy.

Ok..

Lets discuss. "Nissan designed it that way for a reason"

Nissan designed alot of things for a reason, most of which are modified by some of you at some point...so maybe we should stop modifying everything!

Anyway I will gladly retract any argument and admit they are omissions of my lack of knowledge, when I see some factual evidence that these plenums are detrimental to engine health which it seems none of you are yet to provide..

And for the record "she'll be right" Is commonly referred to reference a job done right ..unless of course you have a stick firmly implanted in your rectal area then it becomes a term associated with those who make themselves feel better or try to prove their point by the putting down of others..

I am not here to attack anyones character,I am simply providing another point of view ;)

  • Like 1

Ok..

Lets discuss. "Nissan designed it that way for a reason"

Nissan designed alot of things for a reason, most of which are modified by some of you at some point...so maybe we should stop modifying everything!

Nissan's priorities and the enthusiasts' priorities are somewhat different. Nissan wants to sell as many cars as possible and get as little warranty work in return, and they also have to pass pesky legal things like emissions and safety legislation. Fuel economy is also an important part of a car's marketing. Enthusiasts want to get as much power out as possible, so a lot of those compromises Nissan makes goes out the window.

My point is that when you throw a cut and shut plenum, big turbo and some random injectors onto an RB, go to your tuner and pay as little as possible for a tune because you spent it all on mods, that you shouldn't be surprised that maybe the tuner gets close to your power goal but your emissions are woeful, so's your fuel economy and the motor doesn't last anywhere near as long as it should.

The big problem with cut and shut plenums is upsetting the balance of airflow between cylinders. Of course, if you simply throw fuel at the motor so that your average AFR is rich then the leanest cylinder (typically #6 since the air has momentum and will tend to flow along the back wall of a front-facing plenum) will still be OK. But the engine is definitely far from optimised. This is where it comes down to "doing it right" with the proper knowledge and just slapping a bunch of parts together with a power figure in mind and nothing else. As GTSBoy has said, invariably when people say "FFP works" you ask them if they've had individual cylinder EGT measurement on their exhaust manifold and the answer is "no" - they just threw enough fuel at it to keep it more or less happy and moved on to the next customer.

What GTSTboy, Kinks and others who agreed with them said is all plausible, but again so are the arguments which disagree. To say that Nissan designed something for a reason and thats that is nonesene as far as I am concerned. The last RB25 was built what, almost 2 decades ago now and the requirements and market undoubtedly changed by now. Almost every part on a nissan is replacable with aftermarket parts these days and some can simply be modified as is the case here.

The bottom line is this, unless someone has proven results on a dyno accross the rev range, no argument on here is substantiated. This is a really good discussion and if anyone has something else to add.........C'MON DOWN!!!!

I have seen two RB20s that died rather nastily with the same cut'n'shut plenum. After the second death, when the third engine went into the car, some thermocouples were installed into the exhaust manifold and some rather frightening differences in temperatures demonstrated. These differences were not linked to the injectors (as these were swapped around and also cleaned and flow tested as part of the ensuing paranoia). And when an unmolested RB20 plenum was put back on (with a Gibson style pipe to hook it up to the cooler piping on a temporary basis) the temperature differences all went away.

This was 16 years ago. The science hasn't changed since then. The only thing that has changed is whether the bodgy mod to the plenum gets the lucky angle or the unlucky angle. Whether the throttle body is set to swing one way or the other way, or any of a half dozen other reasons why one hacked plenum won't work at all while another will.

As much as Cut n Shut are uneasy on the eye and look like they will do bad things to your engine

post-22302-0-97852600-1377068539_thumb.jpg

They seem to be working pretty well on some cars... Yeah it isn't a skyline or a rb20/5/6 BUT they've been proven to support a bucket load of power and able to run some pretty decent numbers.

Id still never ever EVER use one on my engine.

Edited by LTHLRB

What GTSTboy, Kinks and others who agreed with them said is all plausible, but again so are the arguments which disagree. To say that Nissan designed something for a reason and thats that is nonesene as far as I am concerned. The last RB25 was built what, almost 2 decades ago now and the requirements and market undoubtedly changed by now. Almost every part on a nissan is replacable with aftermarket parts these days and some can simply be modified as is the case here.

The bottom line is this, unless someone has proven results on a dyno accross the rev range, no argument on here is substantiated. This is a really good discussion and if anyone has something else to add.........C'MON DOWN!!!!

the people that design this stuff know what they're doing, the stock manifold still works well at over double it's original power, and is debatable whether even the performance designs work better, but it's all good anyone can hack it up and improve it?

it seems that the people against it only have proof in what has been seen in the past so have no interest in experimenting with it

so far the argument for it is it's going to be boosting hard so doesn't matter?

i'm surprised there's even people still talking about wanting to do it, refer the pros & cons list earlier in the thread

2 mates cars run a cut and shut one has 300kw other has 360kw both running for 2-3 years tuner noticed decreance in intake temps but no leaning on cylinders.

I have one I am about to throw on mine as in a 180sx the crossover section hits the bonnet etc

did he have 6 wideband 02, one on each of exhaust ports? If not how can you tell if one cylinder is running leaner than the other

did he have 6 wideband 02, one on each of exhaust ports? If not how can you tell if one cylinder is running leaner than the other

Individual temperature probes on each exhaust runner (off the head).

Hotter is leaner. Simple as that.

i'm surprised there's even people still talking about wanting to do it, refer the pros & cons list earlier in the thread

That's the problem with ignorance. Some people just keep re-stating the same point of view until people with actual knowledge get frustrated at the lack of rational discussion, throw their hands in the air and give up.

Then the ignoramus thinks they've "won" and continues to spout rubbish ad nauseum.

This thread will continue until all the people with technical knowledge have given up and all we have left is "my cousin's left handed inbred sister's boyfriend's VL commodore made 400hp with a cut and shut plenum so it must be OK".

Whatever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...