Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Clutch/gearbox Problem

optimusgrime
 Share

Recommended Posts

optimusgrime Rookie

optimusgrime

Posted
Posted

Purchased my r33 just under two weeks ago, all is good except recently i've noticed it's really difficult to put the car into 1st gear and reverse at times especially when the car is rolling (obviously i dont put it in reverse while rolling forward) i'm not sure if its always keen like this or if i've only just realised.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430270-r33-gtst-clutchgearbox-problem/
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

just the way they can be. as long as it goes in when stopped without any major resistance then all is fine.

def recommend to change the gearbox and diff oils for some new quality stuff as most skylines have this neglected and can really benefit from it, you'll probably get a far smoother shift and better longevity from your driveline.

optimusgrime Rookie

optimusgrime

Posted
  • Author
Posted

#@34GeeTeeTee the pedal feels fine, engages about half way down. when i'm stationary it's easy to move into gear, it's only really when in motion that it seems to be a problem have to put a bit of force into putting it in first.

and this is a noob question but where do i check the clutch fluid level? do i have to bleed it before refilling it or anything?

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

#@34GeeTeeTee the pedal feels fine, engages about half way down. when i'm stationary it's easy to move into gear, it's only really when in motion that it seems to be a problem have to put a bit of force into putting it in first.

and this is a noob question but where do i check the clutch fluid level? do i have to bleed it before refilling it or anything?

In the engine bay you will see the little rezzy near the brake fluid... the brake fluid is a bright yellow cap and the clutch i think should be a black rubbery type cap! Just take it off being careful not to spill any fluid on paintwork and see what it looks like, you should actually be able to see the level without taking the cap off but i would check the condition anyway as its more than likely due for a full flush as most get neglected!

When are you trying to put it in first while in motion? Not something you need to do too often?

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

just getting a feel for the car really, it's the first manual i've actually owned so its kind of just a learning process for me at the moment

Fair enough! Well if you have any mates with them or know people that drive them get them to have a quick test drive and put your mind at ease!

It could be perfectly normal and you are worrying for no reason, you could have an issue.... Hard to tell from interstate lol

Let us know how you go with it and enjoy the car man!

  • 2 weeks later...
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

Its a manual!

how many manuals do you know that are easy to get into 1st n reverse when the car is moving?

iv owned 8 manuals and 6 you couldn't get 1st or reverse if the car was moving. Also 2 R33s, 1 you couldn't n 1 you just barely can. Its normal as long as it goes in without crunching when stationery. N yes, sometimes it can even be hard to find reverse.

Its a manual...

:)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Good grief. I have a gearbox that was so reluctant to shift when it was first installed that it wouldn't actually engage any gears at all until we drained the normal oil out and put shockproof in it. That gearbox still likes to snick and crunch a little bit going up or down into the middle gears. And that gearbox is perfectly able to be shifted into first with the car moving at quite decent forward speed.

Does no-one know how to rev match anymore?

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

The car wont go into reverse while rolling because there is no synchro on this gear. Its not something you should really ever be doing anyway wether your travelling in forward or reverse. If your on a hill, put it in reverse BEFORE starting to roll backwards.

as for 1st, as already quoted, It's not the easiest gear to get in, usually you have to be travelling at a lowish speed or rev match as GTSBoy said. Mine shifts into first alright at around 15-20km/h (not 100% sure what speed as its usually when pulling up to stop or slow to near stop)

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...