Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First block sanding done and the sludge washed off, now for a bit of filler in the lows and prime again.

Some things i never saw before block sanding, like minute highs from factory spot welds.

The crease on the drivers door is dented and will be quite tricky to make it right, its gotta be dead straight or it will stand out.

There are very long ripples on top of the left front guard, its like two lows over the whole length, so they end up being flat spots on what should be a gentle curve.

How the fk can i fix that? Even a very long block follows the lows.Guesswork sculpting with bog? Ill have a go at least.

Some bits are quite difficult, but thats half the fun i guess. Its just work if theres no challenge. Like sanding the roof, its a bit boring cos you dont have to think much about it.

Sanding the doors requires correct technique and attention, the learning of new skills is pleasurable, its hardwired into your brain as part of our survival skills.

Filling and sanding:

post-89755-0-09902300-1394765509_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-15253500-1394765531_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-73959600-1394765559_thumb.jpg

Had to grind out the bonnet in those spots as there was some old black paint making the primer split and peel.

Couldnt be stuffed fiddling around for hours on the "Skyline" and the grooves on the brake light surrounds. Dont need stupid little detail sht like that. Fiddly bits dont look good, look at a new Holden. :yucky:

Trying to get the rear to match the bar:

post-89755-0-03740200-1394765582_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-80422800-1394765688_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-55145700-1394765715_thumb.jpg

post-89755-0-34970200-1394765731_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-74765100-1394765749_thumb.jpg

Makin a mess: post-89755-0-08911100-1394765766_thumb.jpg

So theres the start of trying to get it straight and smooth, a lot more work to go.

Oh, and i got a new spraygun, dads isnt working too well. Might give it a service now i have instructions.

Another thing id like to point out is that im not much good at panelbeating, its quite a skill, those guys dont get paid enough for what they do.

So im just using heaps of body filler, that rear guard should really be cut off and replaced, after the whole car has been straightened on the chassis aligner.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Colour and clear?

Well it depends on how well i smoothed it all out, hopefully most of it will block back nice, and ill only have to work on a couple of spots.

The plan is only to re spray those spots where i have to, then black in the doors and under the boot.

All the plastics are good and will only need a rub, trackday bonnet may go black to save time, and trackday guards will be used to experiment with the colour, pearl and clear.

When its perfect, ill do a prime/seal coat, rub that with 600, then 800, dust it off, then the colour, then pearl then clear. Wait 6-7 days to cure (actually will do more mods and maintenance during this time), final rub with 1200, and buff.

Then put it all back together.

Its taking a bit of work because my car is so bent. A straight car is waaay easier. If you had no issues with different paints and repairs, you could just scuff it up and spray.

Mine had issues with the paint, so it had to be stripped back to metal. Just paint stripping is a lot of work. Then i saw all the repairs, but stripper fks bog so i had to re-do all the old repairs too.

Looking for a dark green, a little darker than Holden poison ivy.

I will try a bit of gold ghost pearl and see if i can do it without stripes. Spraying tricoats (colour, pearl, clear) is tricky.

I am a member at my local club:

http://www.sdmahillclimb.com/Start.html

I have only raced there, and a couple of laps at Wakefield once.

Got some more paint today, have to wait till thursday for weather to be good for spraying.

4l, plenty of primer to sand into dust. Gotta learn when to stop.

Looking for a dark green, a little darker than Holden poison ivy.

I will try a bit of gold ghost pearl and see if i can do it without stripes. Spraying tricoats (colour, pearl, clear) is tricky.

I am a member at my local club:

http://www.sdmahillclimb.com/Start.html

I have only raced there, and a couple of laps at Wakefield once.

Got some more paint today, have to wait till thursday for weather to be good for spraying.

4l, plenty of primer to sand into dust. Gotta learn when to stop.

I will have to look at attending some of the Canberra hill climbs, my girlfriend lives there for uni at the moment so would be a good excuse to be over there :P

  • Like 1

A coulple more coats of primer on everything today, and a guide coat.

3l of primer used today... with all the bits and pieces it uses a bit of paint.

Next, sand again, and fill the scratches and tiny imperfections.

The guard, door and bonnet will need a few skims, sands and guides. Its all pretty good except for those 3 areas of damage.

Those areas can be re-sprayed in guide coat on their own.

Then a final thinned out coat of primer, nice and smooth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...