Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any workshop that has a Z tune is serious about Skylines; publishes all their tuning figures online; holds Skyline's Australia nights and is willing to back themselves and tune a Lamborghini Gallardo custom twin turbo set up (pretty confident tuner). Very confident that Adam at JEM knows his stuff.

so, by your summary, every other workshop isnt serious about skylines because they dint have a z tune?

considering there were 20 z tunes released, I dont see how all the serious skyline tuners could own one.

so, by your summary, every other workshop isnt serious about skylines because they dint have a z tune?

considering there were 20 z tunes released, I dont see how all the serious skyline tuners could own one.

I don't know how you came to that conclusion at all lol.

so, by your summary, every other workshop isnt serious about skylines because they dint have a z tune?

considering there were 20 z tunes released, I dont see how all the serious skyline tuners could own one.

Ummm... "unique" take on one part of what I said. I thought we were talking about the better tuner and the reasoning to this little portion of my entire comment is that they are passionate about Skylines. In fact, passionate enough to source a bona fide Z tune, which is "one of the most" serious skylines out there. My experience... passion drives performance. Put as a simple analogy, would you hire someone that turned up to a job interview in a flannelette shirt (Don't answer it's rhetorical)

Edited by TREGTR

envy did it last tune

For what it's worth that figure with those turbos... the poor little things would have been choking for air. I had my R33 Gtr tuned there back in Brookvale days - boosted hard but the oil pressure light kept coming on and I had to back out. That was -5s 320kw. What boost did they get the 460kw figure at and was the knock sensor and oil pressure sender still attached?

Edited by TREGTR

Good choice. Technically not an argument when only one side though.

i think the next tune going to b jez but he is so far for me whats the address to this guys shop and number

i think the next tune going to b jez but he is so far for me whats the address to this guys shop and number

I have no affiliation with either? Once you go to both, you'll be able to tell us which is "best" in your opinion.

Edited by TREGTR

For what it's worth that figure with those turbos... the poor little things would have been choking for air. I had my R33 Gtr tuned there back in Brookvale days - boosted hard but the oil pressure light kept coming on and I had to back out. That was -5s 320kw. What boost did they get the 460kw figure at and was the knock sensor and oil pressure sender still attached?

Most definately can be achieved. Not easy though. Not sure what the oil pressure sender has to do with a good -5 result. :/

Most definately can be achieved. Not easy though. Not sure what the oil pressure sender has to do with a good -5 result. :/

Interested to see a dyno sheet. No sender no oil pressure, usually follows no knock sensor Edited by TREGTR

Interested to see a dyno sheet. No sender no oil pressure, usually follows no knock sensor

Why so much doubt? There have been a few results that have done those numbers on -5's.

Hey mate my old dyno sheet is up in rb26 dyno results

My post numbers are pretty low and I haven't quite figured out how to access this info. Are you able to help me out with where to find it?

I recommended JEM, perhaps, in retrospect, I should have just put: JEM +1 without any reasons or ellaboration as to why I would recommend them to help you out. If you look back over other comments none have provided reasons, I did. I also did not say they were better, as I have no experience with DVS.

The dyno figure seems high that "Envy" provided for -5s, coming from a qualified mechanic that has built a few. In fact, one of my builds is going to JEM next week that is extremely similar to what you have, hence the interest. Also, from past experience there is a lot more to a good tune than just an outright Kw figure. My intention was to draw the focus away from the outright figure, as this often leads to disappointment when there is no longevity factored into the tune for a street car where your expected outcome "is not 460kw but higher" on that set up.

The intention was to assist - the responses make me wonder why I bothered in the first place. Welcome to SA for the new guy! :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they do. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec How does the liner interact with that? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...