Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any workshop that has a Z tune is serious about Skylines; publishes all their tuning figures online; holds Skyline's Australia nights and is willing to back themselves and tune a Lamborghini Gallardo custom twin turbo set up (pretty confident tuner). Very confident that Adam at JEM knows his stuff.

so, by your summary, every other workshop isnt serious about skylines because they dint have a z tune?

considering there were 20 z tunes released, I dont see how all the serious skyline tuners could own one.

so, by your summary, every other workshop isnt serious about skylines because they dint have a z tune?

considering there were 20 z tunes released, I dont see how all the serious skyline tuners could own one.

I don't know how you came to that conclusion at all lol.

so, by your summary, every other workshop isnt serious about skylines because they dint have a z tune?

considering there were 20 z tunes released, I dont see how all the serious skyline tuners could own one.

Ummm... "unique" take on one part of what I said. I thought we were talking about the better tuner and the reasoning to this little portion of my entire comment is that they are passionate about Skylines. In fact, passionate enough to source a bona fide Z tune, which is "one of the most" serious skylines out there. My experience... passion drives performance. Put as a simple analogy, would you hire someone that turned up to a job interview in a flannelette shirt (Don't answer it's rhetorical)

Edited by TREGTR

envy did it last tune

For what it's worth that figure with those turbos... the poor little things would have been choking for air. I had my R33 Gtr tuned there back in Brookvale days - boosted hard but the oil pressure light kept coming on and I had to back out. That was -5s 320kw. What boost did they get the 460kw figure at and was the knock sensor and oil pressure sender still attached?

Edited by TREGTR

Good choice. Technically not an argument when only one side though.

i think the next tune going to b jez but he is so far for me whats the address to this guys shop and number

i think the next tune going to b jez but he is so far for me whats the address to this guys shop and number

I have no affiliation with either? Once you go to both, you'll be able to tell us which is "best" in your opinion.

Edited by TREGTR

For what it's worth that figure with those turbos... the poor little things would have been choking for air. I had my R33 Gtr tuned there back in Brookvale days - boosted hard but the oil pressure light kept coming on and I had to back out. That was -5s 320kw. What boost did they get the 460kw figure at and was the knock sensor and oil pressure sender still attached?

Most definately can be achieved. Not easy though. Not sure what the oil pressure sender has to do with a good -5 result. :/

Most definately can be achieved. Not easy though. Not sure what the oil pressure sender has to do with a good -5 result. :/

Interested to see a dyno sheet. No sender no oil pressure, usually follows no knock sensor Edited by TREGTR

Interested to see a dyno sheet. No sender no oil pressure, usually follows no knock sensor

Why so much doubt? There have been a few results that have done those numbers on -5's.

Hey mate my old dyno sheet is up in rb26 dyno results

My post numbers are pretty low and I haven't quite figured out how to access this info. Are you able to help me out with where to find it?

I recommended JEM, perhaps, in retrospect, I should have just put: JEM +1 without any reasons or ellaboration as to why I would recommend them to help you out. If you look back over other comments none have provided reasons, I did. I also did not say they were better, as I have no experience with DVS.

The dyno figure seems high that "Envy" provided for -5s, coming from a qualified mechanic that has built a few. In fact, one of my builds is going to JEM next week that is extremely similar to what you have, hence the interest. Also, from past experience there is a lot more to a good tune than just an outright Kw figure. My intention was to draw the focus away from the outright figure, as this often leads to disappointment when there is no longevity factored into the tune for a street car where your expected outcome "is not 460kw but higher" on that set up.

The intention was to assist - the responses make me wonder why I bothered in the first place. Welcome to SA for the new guy! :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...