Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys so after contacting the dealer that AWSAM got the update done at, I got the details on the update. He said to tell your local dealer to Contact Nissan Australia tech line department and refer to IQ contact 890008

so I did this and went in today to get the update applied to my car (2007 V36 sedan) and it turns out they couldn't download the update to my car for some unknown reason. So I don't know what the go is but I'm gonna give them a ring again tomorrow to follow up. I had a quick thought that maybe the update has already been done on my car in the last before buying it but then I thought it couldn't have because otherwise I would'nt be having the stupid bucking/stuttering and hard shifts that I get in my car... ?

Edited by moleman_1
  • 4 weeks later...

Ok so I managed to solve the issue!

It was a fuse that was missing in the fuse box in front of the battery. The fuse is named 'anti theft ACC' it's a 10A fuse. 

The fuse was actually missing from my car for some reason...

So I popped a 10A fuse in there when I seen it was empty just because I thought it needed to be there since it was pretty much the only one missing and then when I took it for a drive afterwards I noticed it didn't stutter like it usually does. Now I've taken the car for a drive a couple of times and haven't noticed the stuttering come back at all. So it must've been the damn fuse! 

  • Like 1
On 2017-5-25 at 5:06 PM, moleman_1 said:

Ok so I managed to solve the issue!

It was a fuse that was missing in the fuse box in front of the battery. The fuse is named 'anti theft ACC' it's a 10A fuse. 

The fuse was actually missing from my car for some reason...

So I popped a 10A fuse in there when I seen it was empty just because I thought it needed to be there since it was pretty much the only one missing and then when I took it for a drive afterwards I noticed it didn't stutter like it usually does. Now I've taken the car for a drive a couple of times and haven't noticed the stuttering come back at all. So it must've been the damn fuse! 

 

On 2017-5-25 at 5:06 PM, moleman_1 said:

Ok so I managed to solve the issue!

It was a fuse that was missing in the fuse box in front of the battery. The fuse is named 'anti theft ACC' it's a 10A fuse. 

The fuse was actually missing from my car for some reason...

So I popped a 10A fuse in there when I seen it was empty just because I thought it needed to be there since it was pretty much the only one missing and then when I took it for a drive afterwards I noticed it didn't stutter like it usually does. Now I've taken the car for a drive a couple of times and haven't noticed the stuttering come back at all. So it must've been the damn fuse! 

As much as I hope this is a fix, I have doubts.  I checked mine and while the fuse is also missing, there is only one terminal post for the fuse.  Therefore putting one in place in my car would do nothing unfortunately

Edited by Rufus007
  • 5 weeks later...
On 27/05/2017 at 0:14 PM, Rufus007 said:

 

As much as I hope this is a fix, I have doubts.  I checked mine and while the fuse is also missing, there is only one terminal post for the fuse.  Therefore putting one in place in my car would do nothing unfortunately

You're right it did nothing. I read the other thread about it's probably the VTC being the issue. Did you manage to get a fix for yours @Rufus007

I reckon it is the VCT being sensitive to oil used.

I had Penrite 10 tenth in the car for a period of 5000km and it had the stutter at random times - cold, warm hot...

Change to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 - not a single stutter

2007 V36 sedan with 50,xxxkm

Can't hurt to try on the next oil change

Hi guys, not sure if it was in this thread or another thread but the this issue is a tuning issue where the exhaust cam phasing is too aggressive. Some of the Z33's that runs the VQ35HR have the same issues. There are a few tuners from UK and US who knows of the issue. One of them quoted this

"We see a problem on these car mostly at part throttle which is caused by the exhaust cam control issue , basically the PID (closed loop) is too aggressive and causes the cam to move too far causes a stutter it could cause the same issue at cold warm up I presume if it is using the same part of the exhaust cam map."

To test his theory, I set my exhaust cam phasing settings to 0 and I don't get any of these issues at all. This is of course a band aid fix as this means I won't be utilising cam phasing at all. Will need to get a tune done with someone who understands cam phasing and test how far we can push it. I could be totally wrong though...

On 30/06/2017 at 3:31 PM, petern said:

I reckon it is the VCT being sensitive to oil used.

I had Penrite 10 tenth in the car for a period of 5000km and it had the stutter at random times - cold, warm hot...

Change to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 - not a single stutter

2007 V36 sedan with 50,xxxkm

Can't hurt to try on the next oil change

How long have you been running the Mobil oil for?  I find whenever the oil is freshly changed there is no stuttering with any brand / type etc.  Strange, but the stuttering then comes back soon.  I've had best ongoing results with Castrol edge 0w40 (density 0.841) iny car tho.  If you read some USA threads apparently lower density helps

On 01/07/2017 at 10:50 PM, Rufus007 said:

How long have you been running the Mobil oil for?  I find whenever the oil is freshly changed there is no stuttering with any brand / type etc.  Strange, but the stuttering then comes back soon.  I've had best ongoing results with Castrol edge 0w40 (density 0.841) iny car tho.  If you read some USA threads apparently lower density helps

Been in for 3000km now with no stuttering.

With my car it didnt like the 10 tenth oil. Stuttering happened not long after.

 

  • 1 year later...

So @moleman_1,  did you follow up on why they couldn't do an update on your car? I believe there should be a firmware version or something similar they can check / read out to tell if the fix has been applied to your car prior ?

10 minutes ago, Elcid said:

So @moleman_1,  did you follow up on why they couldn't do an update on your car? I believe there should be a firmware version or something similar they can check / read out to tell if the fix has been applied to your car prior ?

Had a nice long chat on the day as to why they couldn’t do it. Apparently the file wasn’t able to be applied for an unknown reason, they couldn’t tell me why, probably because they actually didn’t know why... Nissan are quite useless and all they want is your money, that’s what I gathered. So now I gave up, unless someone else has an alternative solution?

2 hours ago, moleman_1 said:

Had a nice long chat on the day as to why they couldn’t do it. Apparently the file wasn’t able to be applied for an unknown reason, they couldn’t tell me why, probably because they actually didn’t know why... Nissan are quite useless and all they want is your money, that’s what I gathered. So now I gave up, unless someone else has an alternative solution?

If they can copy what they need from my car and apply it to yours, i'll take it down to Main North Nissan for you.

  • 2 years later...

Interesting that the Plenum bolts solved his issue : https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/340934-hesitation-bucking.html 

Thought it might be of interest in case some have not solved the issue.

FYI - My (newer, second) 2007 G35 does not have this issue. 

  • 1 year later...

Hello guys

hopefully I can get answer after I really spend a lot of money for really nothing

I know I am so late for that , after looong time researching I don’t know how all this time I didn’t see this thread!!!!


Please note that my oil pressure is after fully warm up is around 8-10 psi / 2000k rpm around 40psi / cold start 80 psi


now I have all above symptoms and I have confirmed that

I did these 4 tries to confirm what all of you said


These results confirmed by driving long distance with every try just to confirm the results

1 - disconnected both sides = issue gone

2 - disconnected right side only = issue gone

3 - disconnected left side = issue gone

4 - plugged both sides = got the issue back

Really want to confirm before I waste more and more money

I know the gallery gaskets needs to replaced but for now ,This sputtering will be fixed after I replace this vtc or the oil pressure will be the main issue? , I know and saw in groups some guys their oil pressure is less that 8 psi and they don’t have this sputtering


if the replacement will fix , do I need to replace both sides full covers assembly or just the variable valve timing solenoid


is there any possibility of any other warn parts effecting the vtc functions like bad pcv valve or others

  • 1 year later...

Yer Nissan basically told me to get f**ked on my V37 firmware or any update for that matter.

Basically Private/grey import and is not released in Australia and No Parts can be offered in Australia to fit or any software upgrades or something to that nature.

 

1 hour ago, HYBRID VL said:

Yer Nissan basically told me to get f**ked on my V37 firmware or any update for that matter.

Basically Private/grey import and is not released in Australia and No Parts can be offered in Australia to fit or any software upgrades or something to that nature.

 

At the time, the most help I received was actually from Infiniti Melbourne. They sourced the update and provided it to nissan, and then Nissans Techline applied it remotely. Andrew Taylor from Infiniti was the legend behind it all, along with Clint Robertson.


This was a long time ago now, you could try is email [email protected] and ask him about the 2008 ECU update he helped facilitate in 2014.
If you do speak with him, let him know Im still incredibly grateful for his help.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...