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O2 sensor


JaFF

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The Falcon EA through EL uses a OZA23-D2 (iaw the site).  The Z means Zirconia.  

So, IMHO, do not use the Falcon sensor for the R32 GTR, R31 or VL Dunnydore.

Given the Falcon EL sensor doesn't physically fit I don't think its going to be a problem.

Lucien.

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  • 2 weeks later...

According to the NTK site, the 1990 to 1995 Maxima VG30 has an Oxygen Sensor with a D2F sensor and an NTK type 18 flat 3 pin plug, so it should be a suitable replacement for the front R32 GTR sensor. It's about 250mm longer than the standard unit at 715mm but, IMHO, that's better than too short. Its part number is OTD2F-3G1.

I'm told that NTK part number OTD2F-P1L1 has the correct sensor, is 435mm long and has the correct square plug for the rear R32 GTR sensor. There aren't any in Australia yet, but they're on order and should be here around October. See - all you have to do is ask the right people :P

BTW, this **may** also be the same sensor that went into 1987-1989 300ZX Turbos (22690-21P1D?, 22690-21P11?). Has anyone on this site got Nissan FAST with part nos for the 300ZX? If those are the part nos and they use the OTD2F-P1L1, maybe 300ZX owners have identified compatible sensors from NTK, Bosch, ACA etc.

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OK. more stuff on R32 GTR oxygen sensors.

NTK part number OTD2F-P1L1 has a wire length of 435mm, a 12mm thread and a square connector with 3 pins connected.

NTK part number OTD2F-P1P has a wire length of 455mm, a 12mm thread and a flat 3 pin type 18 connector.

Neither is available in Australia yet, but NTK will order them in. Before they do, they want to know that the lengths are OK.

Does anyone have a set of genuine GTR R32 ones they have removed and have lying around? If so, would you please let me know the full length of each, but not counting the sensor bit that goes into the dump pipe?

Thanks

James

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I've found a pair and measured them up. The one with the flat 3 pin plug looks like a perfect match. The one with the square plug is about 6cm shorter that the original, which is pretty close, but I may as well ask and see if they have something that matches exactly.

Duncan, would you measure up the one with the square plug, just in case the one I have isn't original?

I've put all the stuff I've found so far in Sensor page but there are lots of holes and a couple of guesses.

If you can give me any info to make the table more complete, I'd appreciate it.

If anyone has Nissan Fast with the specs for the R31 3 litre Skyline (AKA VL dunnydoor), could they PM me the part number of the Oxygen Sensor? Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Long thread - but one of the most important ones here!

One question, having just read the whole post, nobody says how you would check one with a multimeter, though the fact you can has been mentioned a few times. Anyone?

I suspect mine has just gone (R34 GTX Turbo) as my fuel economy has just gone from 10l/100K (highway) and 13l/100K (city) to about 18l/100K no matter what!!

Ian

Check out this link, (the result of a Google search on Oxygen sensor multimeter) . Also check out the Bench Test link there.

Alternately, is there a cheap dyno shop nearby?

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Check out this link, (the result of a Google search on Oxygen sensor multimeter) .  Also check out the Bench Test link there.

Alternately, is there a cheap dyno shop nearby?

Good link - and I also found in the nissan service data (for my r34) that -

- it should be tightend to 40-60 (n-m) or 4.1-6.1 kg-m,

- the bottom (after warm up) should be between 0.1 and 0.4 V

- the top should be between 0.7v an 0.9v

- at idle it should be high for approx 3 seconds, then low for a second.

- at 2000 rpm it should be alternating high/low at about a second each.

And you can check all that on pin 50 on the ecu (in a R34).

Edit: and as I posted in the stage O2 thread, I went and got one at repco yesterday - they are having a 20% off sale, so it was only $86.40 for the NTK one :-)

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  • 4 weeks later...

The original wires of the r34 gt-t are : RED WHITE RED

The replacement nissan 02 sensor was : BLACK WHITE BLACK

So I wired it as follows:

Red > Black

White > White

Red > Black

Reset my ecu.

There has been no improvement in fuel economy, have i done something wrong or could this mean that the problem isn't the 02 sensor?

Edited by Amadeo
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  • 3 weeks later...

Has anyone done a diagnosis of their O2 sensor before and after replacing it? I found this website here about how to check it both in the car and on a workbench: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/O2sensors.html

In there it says "You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts. If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good."

I did the in-car check as they described because my car was already hot, and I found my O2 sensor was fluctuating several times a second between around 0.1 and 0.9V, so according to the above it is working properly. At the end of the article, it says there's no benefit in replacing any O2 sensor that will pass the workbench test which is a more accurate test.

Can someone workbench-test their new (or spare) O2 sensor and post up how fast it drops from 0.6V to 0.1V after heating? It's supposed to be under 4 seconds, but I'm thinking if a brand new one does it in 1 second, but mine does it in 3.9 seconds, it's time to replace it anyway even though it technically passed the test. I'll test mine tomorrow if I remember (I'd do it now but the engine is still too hot!)

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok i got it its the direct fit version for $82. (they wanted 140ish for the universal and the only differnce i saw was that there was no plug :S) anywyas i opened it and the colours were different to what has been described. theres i blue and 2 black!) im assuming the blue is the live 1 and that connects to the white??? any help much appreciated

Edited by bazz
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my o2 sensor is now replaced and works fine, getting alot mopre economy!!!!

just incase anyone wants to do the same heres my input

i used a pipe socket to remove the o2 sensor and put the new 1!

i bought the o2sensor from repco in banx for 82 dollars. its the ef falcon direct fit (cut of the plug) (brand ACA).

the wires are 1 blue and 2 black. basicaly youll always get 1 different colour ands 2 the same. the different 1 (iun this case blue) goes to the brown wire (in my car 93 r33 skyline) and the other 2 dont matter what order.

hope that helps

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  • 2 weeks later...

yes rd-runr,the oza395-E2 does fit.This sensor is right provided you ask for the GTST-R33 part.Should be about $80 with correct plug.Order through Auto One.Now,here is something to think about.Though I used the ACA rox-207,I have perfect performance,however,My little electro-genius friend suggests the NGK part may be a tad better due to the louve` design rather than the perforated of the ACA.The reason? Air speed.Not only do turbo cars produce more heat but also more exhaust speed.This may over-whelm the ACA as that gas is hitting it more directly.Personally,I think this may only apply to the 250kw brigade rather than slightly modded cars.I have ordered one and will see if there is any difference.

Yes Bazz.the sensor does have a role to play in all areas of management.No you don`t have to thrash your car,it will learn as you drive.Remember,AFM measures going in,O2 sensor measures going out.We will call it closed loop.

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ok, have tried rox207 and as promised I have now tried the ngk oza295-e2 from auto one.This sensor has less perforations and half the size holes.Would seem NGK also believe turbo cars need less exhaust gas hitting the sensor.Also, the wires are two white and one black as original,(95 model.)

Power is up again over the rox-207 and seems crisper.Most importantly; even better fuel consumption.I know I`ll get 500km`s to a tank.I really don`t need confirmation that the oxy sensor plays a big part in ALL levels of tuning, but I have confirmed this with an electronics engineer involved in automotive softwear.NGK oza395-E2 is the one to get and it comes with the right plug.

On a side note I will be at Croydon Motorsport Developement on tuesday to have Apexi tuned and EBC put in with injectors.Allready have other good bits on car,should prove interesting.

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Many thanks, I've checked out the NGK site, different part numbers OTD2F-P1P.

They only cover from 06/91 onwards, I've got a 1989 vintage, so dunno if the connectors / fittings are the same ????

I don't have FAST to confirm via part numbers, but I would be 99% sure there was no change.

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That's only one of the two you need for an R32 GTR. I promised to get back to their tech person with some details from this forum so they could confirm the second one (I'll have to ask them to fix the dates too).

The outstanding problem is the length, and which is front and which is back. Nissan FAST shows part number 22690-A as a square plug and at the **rear** of the motor. Part 22690 with a flat plug is shown at the **front** of the engine.

I reckon the diagram is wrong, so can a couple of people check their R32 GTRs and tell me if the square plug goes on the front or the back of the motor? Also, check out the length of the cable with the square plug. If you think a cable which is 435mm would fit (my original one is 490mm), then NTK can get in part number OTD2F-P1L1. So, would a 435mm cable fit?

If we can get the engines and NTK part numbers confirmed I'm pretty sure NTK will update their site with the info for all models we can identify.

Another part number for the list: The people in lambdasensors.com in Britain sell Bosch part number 0 258 003 256 for Skylines. It's originally for a Nissan Micra. No good for R32 GTRs though. It's Zirconia based, not Titana.

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That's only one of the two you need for an R32 GTR.

Yes, but as I said before I really don't see the problem when you can just buy two and splice one on to the existing plug and cable?

(Edit: I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just honestly don't see the issue. Am I missing something?)

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Yes, but as I said before I really don't see the problem when you can just buy two and splice one on to the existing plug and cable?

(Edit:  I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just honestly don't see the issue.  Am I missing something?)

Nope. you're not missing anything. I just prefer not to splice. I read somewhere that water getting into the sheath and down to the sensor would cause them to fail, but do you think I can find the reference? Anyway, if we can get the correct parts, why not figure out which ones they are and organise to get them sent to OZ? That way people wanting sensors next year can just go to the local shop and not have to read 20 pages of thread figuring out which alternative they can use :)

BTW. I went and bought one of those $158 Dick Smith oscilloscopes. I want to get a look at this signal and figure out once and for all if I have lazy sensors. I'll have a go when I finish my exams.

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