Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a few tap and die sets but the 3 CAS bolts seemed to be something different to what is common in the engine bay and also outside of what i have tap, bolt thread wise. Anyone got the specs on the bolts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431538-cas-bolt-sizes-and-thread-pitch/
Share on other sites

Ok sorry to keep on this but ive confirmed my m6x1 tap does not fit thread wise to the rb25 cas bolt.

Its a std bolt, i know this...

Either im definitely a martian or i dont know how to measure a bolt thread but my frost set of dies, specifically m6x1 does not fit the cas bolt thread...

Someone please tell what im doing wrong??

IT IS DEFINITELY A M6x1

Maybe your cas thread hole is stripped. you have a bolt to measure, why dont you meaasure it? Regardless its a m6x1. stop asking what it is!!!

also, in relation to your photo you are holding the bolt on an angle, so it wont line up.

ill keep asking as long as the tap thread and the bolt thread dont match, thats why its on an angle cock, cause it dont match... Pretty simple, no it aint threaded

There is

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...