Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Xp, I was given an old IBM lappy, bought a $20 battery for it and loaded just the Consult III and Fcon software for the car. It boots in no time and has the serial out I need for the fcon, to save running one of those damn usb/serial converters.

hmm OK I might do the same. even with a 2nd hand laptop it's a very cheap way to work with nissans.

Trav, that's right, it says no registered VI/MI. I have registered the serial number but it won't connect. It seems to have a Bluetooth connection in Win7 which creates 2 com ports (which I had to set to com3 and com4 for the virtual session). The virtual session has the 2 com ports mapped but the software won't recognise it. Alternatively I connect via USB, I think the issue there is the lack of a Win7 driver for the Consult because it is available in the virtual session under the USB menu, but again isn't recognised by the software.

This thread really isn't about connecting consults on Win7 so I'll start a new one if I get it sorted, if not I might just pick up an 2nd hand laptop....would be a shame because I've managed to get everything else (eg FAST) working through the virtual session or native on win 7 (datalogit etc)

Ahh ok because i couldnt get mine to work but worked fine after following this: http://www.obd2repair.com/news/nissan-scanner-consult-iii-vimi-registration-instruction-a-433.html

Hope you get it sorted, definitely worth getting an old laptop for it though they are so cheap these days.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Lol haha yeah I nearly checked , ok I'll have a look there Google isn't being real help full and I'm trying to look for my manual with no success ,

Searches on Google often take some time, as threads are often hijacked & taken off-topic. :yes:

  • 11 months later...
  • 2 years later...

So more  specific software like Nissan consult and the required hardware is needed to even read info from the ecu on a 09 v36 3.7l huh? So my generic elm327 and torque app won't work? Mine doesn't work and google search leads me to believe this but thought I'd check to make sure in this old thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...