Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"air that was previously flowing towards the TB does in fact have to turn around and flow the other way in order to decrease the pressure in the tract."

I put it forward, there's no need for the air to reverse and flow the other way. Consider this - throttle shuts, airflow into engine stops as throttle plate has now blocked path. Compressor still spinning and pumping air into piping which is now not flowing. BOV located straight after compressor on intercooler piping lets this air out rather than pressure building and pushing against compressor. So the airflow would be effectively stopped, pressure remains the same, and any incoming air would continue to flow the same way, just be diverted straight out the BOV rather than continuing through towards the engine. Get back on throttle and more boost pressure is already there as it hadn't been depressurised in front of throttle plate.

To be honest i think the difference between putting it just before throttle, or just after compressor, would be sweet F.A, in most cases, but it makes sense to me to put it in front of compressor. For another reason, when no longer being driven by the turbine (under closed throttle) the compressor will slow down alot more trying to drive air through the intercooler rather than allowing it to vent out straight away before passing through the I/C.

Obviously this is based on zero hours of research and development by me :P and I'm sure auto manufacturers might have given it at least a few hours testing.....

Nup. Inlet tract at 20 psi. Throttle slams shut and turbo still piling air in, sure. But if you watched a boost gauge connected to the inlet tract (rather than the plenum) during such an event and you will see the pressure fall a long way below the boost pressure it was running at. That only occurs because the air goes out through the hole. The air has to come from everywhere and will flow from the furthest points towards the hole.

Air has mass and inertia. Making it stop and turn about to flow back the other way is inefficient and does work on the air - which ultimately ends up as either heat, or extra pressure (in the form of pulses running up and down the inlet tract).

Again, I must stress that I'm not maintaining that it is the most important consideration in "designing" such a system. But is apparently considered important enough by people who were paid to do it to do it in a particular way, rather than the apparently easier and cheaper alternative.

Can you put a pic up of your engine bay?

Also a while back when I was intending to go high mount ext gate turbo I planned on using parts I found in the US which were a 2" flex pipe which was designed as a kit for external gate setups. The way it looked was pretty good. One end had a bung which was welded to a piece of pipe from your gate and another bung welded into your exhaust and was at a 45 degree angle(they came in different angles). Then you use the hose which was x cm long and attached one end to your WG and the other to the bung in the exhaust. Good thing about the setup was you could undo it all in a matter of minutes and go straight to a atmo vent setup if you wished. The guy who was selling them stopped and I have never seen anything close to them since. This was about 2 years ago.

Weld the adapter underneath the intercooler pipe next to the intake, weld nipple to side of intake bend. Attach BOV to IC piping, run return to the nipple on intake pipe. Any metal/fab shop could complete the welding for a carton.

  • Like 1

Weld the adapter underneath the intercooler pipe next to the intake, weld nipple to side of intake bend. Attach BOV to IC piping, run return to the nipple on intake pipe. Any metal/fab shop could complete the welding for a carton.

No worries, my pop can weld. So I'll ask him to see if he can sort something out.

Thanks again guys :)

  • Like 1

got to say, I look forward to your posts GTSBoy, you're certainly a learned fellow. Just posted something in the braking section I'd like your thoughts and input on, if you care to do so.

Re above "But if you watched a boost gauge connected to the inlet tract (rather than the plenum) during such an event and you will see the pressure fall a long way below the boost pressure it was running at. That only occurs because the air goes out through the hole."

agreed, this being the point of a BOV to release pressure.

"The air has to come from everywhere and will flow from the furthest points towards the hole." if you looked at a smoke test though, wouldn't you see it start to flow through from the area immediately located from the source of the escape route (BOV)? So if you put it as close to the compressor as possible (with the BOV intended to prevent reversion and damage to the compressor) it would reduce pressure in this area first thus preventing reversion and damage to turbo.

I don't claim to have done the research and testing to make this theory foolproof by any means; as we all know from doing basic modifications from day one of owning a turbo car, OEM specs can be improved upon and you got to wonder how much convenience and budgets play a part in R&D and the mass-marketed final product.

if you looked at a smoke test though, wouldn't you see it start to flow through from the area immediately located from the source of the escape route (BOV)? So if you put it as close to the compressor as possible (with the BOV intended to prevent reversion and damage to the compressor) it would reduce pressure in this area first thus preventing reversion and damage to turbo.

Pressure pulses in air travel at the speed of sound. At normal atmospheric pressure and temperature, that's 300m/s or so. It's a bit different with hotter high pressure air, but it's still bloody fast. The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open. Sure, the first air to escape is the air closest to the BOV, but all the air in the tract starts to move towards the BOV as soon as it's open. Well, except for the air near the TB which has to stop and turn around first, but even that doesn't take very long.

you're kind of killing your own arguement there though, if "The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open." then the assertion "The BOV should be physically located close to the throttle body" - a cpl of milliseconds, it wouldn't matter where you put it, and so you could mount it whereever was most convenient and any performance advantage would be negligible if we're talking a couple of milliseconds.

you're kind of killing your own arguement there though, if "The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open." then the assertion "The BOV should be physically located close to the throttle body" - a cpl of milliseconds, it wouldn't matter where you put it, and so you could mount it whereever was most convenient and any performance advantage would be negligible if we're talking a couple of milliseconds.

So why did nissan mount it where they did? They could have put it heaps closer to the inlet pipe that its plumbed back to, and eliminated the metal pipework on the return side. They have gone to the extra trouble of mounting it as close to the throttle for a reason.

you're kind of killing your own arguement there though, if "The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open." then the assertion "The BOV should be physically located close to the throttle body" - a cpl of milliseconds, it wouldn't matter where you put it, and so you could mount it whereever was most convenient and any performance advantage would be negligible if we're talking a couple of milliseconds.

No I'm not. The pressure signal is felt quickly. The result, being the decel followed by accel in the other direction takes a lot longer and actually triggers reverbatory pressure pulses that don't need to be there. If the BOV is located at the end of the pipe towards which the air is already flowing, then the air just keeps going that way and dumps out the BOV with no upset.

But, again, I must stress that apart from it being obvious that some serious engineers think it's a good idea to locate it near the TB, it's not likely to be the be all and end all in the decision you make about where to stick the BOV. If it were me doing some plumbing design for a new engine in a new engine bay or modding up an engine in an existing engine bay, I'd try to keep the BOV near the TB, but if I couldn't I wouldn't get liver cancer from the stress of it.

Hey guys, I'm having trouble finding an adaptor plate for my 'Kompact Plumback'

But I do have the spec sheet (of the BOV) with the exact measurement of the base ect.

Will an exhaust shop be able to make up an adaptor plate for it?

If I hand them this sheet.

image-50.jpg

Edited by ZRBE

An exhaust shop, no.

Any fabricator could make one. Does it need to be alloy or stainless?

The plate can be removed off the bov I am fairly sure, that way you could use a round hose instead.

An exhaust shop, no.

Any fabricator could make one. Does it need to be alloy or stainless?

The plate can be removed off the bov I am fairly sure, that way you could use a round hose instead.

My cooler pipe is stainless. So, I guess the adaptor stainless as well?

But if I can remove the plate from bottom of the BOV and just use a hose to connect it to the cooler pipe. Then I might do that, sounds easier and probably a better seal..

Personally, just removed the SSQ and "cap" it off.

BTW the BOV will be the last thing they look for after they see your turbo... :action-smiley-069:

Well I will be removing the SSQ altogether and capping it.

Then putting in the TurboSmart one in. On that bend closest to intake.

Haha the first time I was pulled over in my 32 the cop knew P Platers could NOT drive turbos (so did I) but looked straight at my turbo.. :P

Edited by ZRBE
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well I found a welder.. Ended up using the turbosmart kompact..

I have a really bad feeling I might of set it up incorrectly.... :/

I'll post a pic up in a sec, I know that hose is kinked I have bought a new hose that won't kink.

So that's sorted..

Just wondering with the skinny black hose ontop of the BOV. Does that connect to the back of the throttle body?

I know it's waaaay too long haha I need to cut it shorter.

Appreciate the help guys!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...