Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R31 skyline running a stock rb20det from a r32 with a JJR dump pipe. Its running dual thermos on a stock aus spec radiator (fairly old). Just did a track day with the following problems:

Engine won't rev over 5500rpm.

Radiator gets way to hot, at one point the water temp hit 115 degrees so I had to take it off the track to cool down.

Before fixing the revs problem, we need to address the cooling. In what order should I diagnose this problem so that it is most cost effective.

I was thinking something like:

1) flush radiator

2) check water pump functions properly

3) replace radiator

Should I remove the thermostat? Is getting some anti boil radiator additive worth it?

All suggestions welcome as I'm new to working on cars.

Can post photos if needed regarding the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432017-r31-rb20det-drift-car-help/
Share on other sites

1. double check all your heater hoses that come off the block and off the thermostat housing, very common to have a pin hole and it only pisses out when hot and sucks air in making the car run hotter

2. hose rad out with water to confirm its not restricted from a blockage

3.remove and check thermostat that it opens in boiling water

4.check that water pump rotors ( behind the thermostat) move when you spin it by hand with the fan belt off

5.might as well flush rad due to age

6. bleed coolant repetitively

for thermo fans the best type is the 'S' bladed fans as they pick up the air in a proper whirl wind where as the straight ones just are crap

Edited by Dan_J

Unfortunately i live in one of those neighbourhoods where the retiree's living next door call the police if we even sneeze. And my car has no exhaust so its pretty loud. I'll have to wait till Friday :(

Any ideas on why it wont rev past that amount? It seems to spit and run rough over the 5000 mark, loses boost too.

It's definitely running rich.. I can smell the fuel from the cabin. And it has some sort of resistor plugged in to the injectors that makes the ecu think the engine is running cold so it pumps more fuel in or something :/

For the heating side of things, first check the thermostat. Then check the radiator for cool spots. Basically, get the car warm and then run your hand over the radiator. If you feel spots that are cooler than other areas then the radiator is blocked and either needs replacing or the be professionally cleaned. Flushing the radiator does bugger all.

It's definitely running rich.. I can smell the fuel from the cabin. And it has some sort of resistor plugged in to the injectors that makes the ecu think the engine is running cold so it pumps more fuel in or something :/

i had the low fuel rail preasure issue which is why i brought it up.

i could also smell fuel in the cabin which was the fuel return line or something not working right. this may be an issue if you can smell fuel.

coilpacks, fresh spark plugs, dyno for a propper check to see whats going on i recon.

  • Like 1

It does this cold spot thing. So maybe I will give that a go. Do you thnk I should give it a go myself or just take it to a radiator place?

Take it to a radiator place, it isn't something that can be done at home. The cost of getting professionally cleaned may be close to that of a new radiator though, so it might be worth ringing and asking how much it will cost first.

I've been quoted $280 delivered for a brand new aus spec r31 radiator. Is that a reasonable price?

Ill take it all apart tomorrow and take it in first thing Monday morning. Apparently they have a method of testing if its blocked or functioning fine at the shop.

That's a pretty good price for a new genuine radiator mate, make sure you check the fan/shroud etc for damage.

After 25 years or however old the rad is, chances are it's going to be a bit rough. I'd recommend a new rad if you're hitting the track, for sure. Also hoses, thermostat etc. As bad as it is, I never used a thermostat in my R31 for the track (RB30).

I've been quoted $280 delivered for a brand new aus spec r31 radiator. Is that a reasonable price?

Ill take it all apart tomorrow and take it in first thing Monday morning. Apparently they have a method of testing if its blocked or functioning fine at the shop.

From what I gather, often they just tip some water out of a kettle through the radiator and feel for cold spots (pretty much the same method I suggested)
  • Like 1

So I took it in to the radiator shop. The guy said he has never seen a radiator that was so blocked in the 14 years of working there. Which is definitely a main factor in the overheating problem I've been having.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...