Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree Marty I have heard nothing but good things bout their after sales service! But buy an improving product or buy 1 that works? I wouldn't risk my motor on an "improving product" ;)

Haltech are a big company with 28 people employed doing nothing but improving their existing products and coming up with new ones. If there is an issue with their ECU's, they will help get it sorted.

Read Ants thread? Brand new outta the box didn't work ;) pretty sure Matt 34geeteetee had dramas with his too. Also read some evo boys having dramas with them & not to mention my tuners experiences with them.

What drugs are you smoking???

And they sorted it out quick smart. Its also not like it was a dangerous problem, it just had a malfunction with the com ports. Not anything that is gonna risk the engine. I don't recall Mat having any problems with his, and he loves it haha.

I don't think Haltech is an 'up-and comer', they are well established. 28 full time employees is a big company. I know reading on the Link forums that there have been a few failures there, and countless Power FC's have had issues. Doesn't make them a dud product.

So why didn't you buy a haltech? Lol :D

And they sorted it out quick smart. Its also not like it was a dangerous problem, it just had a malfunction with the com ports. Not anything that is gonna risk the engine. I don't recall Mat having any problems with his, and he loves it haha.

I don't think Haltech is an 'up-and comer', they are well established. 28 full time employees is a big company. I know reading on the Link forums that there have been a few failures there, and countless Power FC's have had issues. Doesn't make them a dud product.

Any mechanical or electrical part/component/system or divice will have it's fair share of failure or issues, it's the way of the world... Every single brand of aftermarket ecu have a percentage of failure rate.

... if Haltech were such a bad product as you suggest, how are they still in buisness?

Have you owned a haltech ecu? have you owned more than one? are you a professional tuner without ecu bias? is the 'tuner' your are reffering to unbiased?

I have one, I love it, it works well for me.

Going back to the OP's actual question, they do seem to read quite similar in specs.

They both look to have 3D mapping (for flex fuel), sequential injection and direct fire ignition.

The PS2000 has wideband and narrowband 02 control whereas the Pro only has narrow.

The PS2000 has a bigger internal MAP sensor 2.5 bar compared with 1.5 in the Pro.

Pro has 8 inputs (with the addition of another cable) PS2000 has 11 built in.

PS2000 has variable cam timing control.

PS2000 has hard and soft cut rev limiter

PS2000 can control injection based on exhasut gas temp changes.

Basically the PS2000 looks to be a lot more advanced in what inputs it can use to automatically alter the tune on the fly.

If you're sticking with a pretty standard setup the Pro would be more than enough. If you're going to go crazy and spend hours on the dyno getting the car running better than when it came from the factory (and juist as reliable in terms of no dangerous lean outs, etc) then the PS2000 is for you.

For $500 it's probably worth spending a bit more now so you don't regret it in 12 months.

  • Like 1

So why didn't you buy a haltech? Lol :D

Because at the time, Haltech didn't make a plug in board for the 34. That has only just hit the market, in fact it might still even be due for release to the public. I was never interested in going wire-in, so Haltech just wasn't an option for me.

Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with my Link, but I do think Haltech is a fantastic product as well. I went to a tech night of theirs a few weeks ago, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Haltech product after that.

I love their Youtube videos! They're awesome. Within reason would give me the confidence at having a crack at tuning myself. Only problem is most tuners won't touch a tune that's already been done. They'd just wipe it and start all over!

If you added flex fuel or boost control later the videos would definately be a huge help.

I think people underestimate the time and effort it takes to wire in a standalone ecu. I would rate my electrical skills as above average and it took me a good 30-40hrs to run and terminate the ecu engine wiring (especially with motorsport bulkhead connectors etc).

I'm using every channel at the moment and will be going to an expansion unit soon, however if you aren't trying to run lots of extra crazy stuff a plug in will save lots and lots of time and money (my loom, plugs and extra sensors probably added up to around 3k).

Later on down the line, if you do need more in's and out's then the can bus expansion units are available. Additionally, Haltech are releasing a can buss O2 module that will solve the O2 issue.

Cheers

J.

Everyone has their own preference to ECUs and it's a never ending debate.
We use Haltech and have NEVER had any problems, I've also used a Link and the car ran like a bag of nuts.
I'm sure others have had the opposite experience.
Haltech support is fantastic from my experience.

Any mechanical or electrical part/component/system or divice will have it's fair share of failure or issues, it's the way of the world... Every single brand of aftermarket ecu have a percentage of failure rate.

... if Haltech were such a bad product as you suggest, how are they still in buisness?

Have you owned a haltech ecu? have you owned more than one? are you a professional tuner without ecu bias? is the 'tuner' your are reffering to unbiased?

I have one, I love it, it works well for me.

this.

I wouldnt go any other ecu after owning one.

I think I require a true expert to help me through this. I have out grown the power fc and I have an idea of what I need, but it's still difficult to know what's actually important in the world of ECUs.

I think I require a true expert to help me through this. I have out grown the power fc and I have an idea of what I need, but it's still difficult to know what's actually important in the world of ECUs.

Huh? If you have an idea what you need and you believe you've outgrown the FC then you must know what you need? What is the FC not doing that you think you need? Find and ECU that does do this for you and buy that one. As has been aluded to before, ask the bloke that's going to tune the car for you. Tell him what you're chasing and let him have a say rather than rock up with your new ECU only for him to say he doesn't tune that ECU as many unfortunate people have copped before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...