Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 32 is painted gold (bought like that) and it looks like a good paint job, other than they didn't tape it up very good. (A lot of spray) Whoever looked after the paintwork did a really bad job... If it ever was looked after. I'm using it as my test to cut & polish, but will be going through a couple of YouTube vids so I'm not completely hopeless. I'll chuck some before & after pics WHEN I do the deed. Only doing this because I will be getting a respray in the future.. Still tossing up between a darker gold or white..

Unfortunately this happens a lot where people just take a cut and polish to fix any paint issue and it ends up ruining your paint. Hope all goes well because sometimes a cut and polish is a must and seal with wax. If you get to that stage expect to wax it every 2 weeks or so.

Unfortunately this happens a lot where people just take a cut and polish to fix any paint issue and it ends up ruining your paint. Hope all goes well because sometimes a cut and polish is a must and seal with wax. If you get to that stage expect to wax it every 2 weeks or so.

Haha, yeah.. I'm pretty sure I will end up making it look worse :P

But, half of the paint has already been ground away to get rid of the rust :D

The issue with most detailing places is the firs thing they do is take a mild cut and polish to your car. RUINS your paint.

...or I recommend taking the time out and doing it yourself.

My detailer has a "Paint Thickness Gauge" which tells several stories - before even touching the car.

* How much paint he has to work with - or with the N1, not to work with.

* With sun damaged panels (horizontal ones), more latitude can be had with cut 'n polish within certain micron tolerances

* Panels which have been repainted will give off thicker readings

* Nicki (- sounds better than bog) can be detected in vulnerable spots

My detailer has a "Paint Thickness Gauge" which tells several stories - before even touching the car.

* How much paint he has to work with - or with the N1, not to work with.

* With sun damaged panels (horizontal ones), more latitude can be had with cut 'n polish within certain micron tolerances

* Panels which have been repainted will give off thicker readings

* Nicki (- sounds better than bog) can be detected in vulnerable spots

If you don't mind giving a ballpark figure, how much does it cost for someone to give the car that much attention to detail etc? Just curious really.

Eugene Chan charged me $400 (mates rates) for the two day weekend Jeremy.

EugeneDetail14.jpg

EugeneDetail6.jpg

EugeneDetail7.jpg

EugeneDetail13.jpg

EugeneDetail16.jpg

EugeneDetail22.jpg

Typical process was...

Wash > Clay Bar using Lubricant > Polish (Menzerna brand) 2x with different grade pads > Sealant (Optima brand) applied > Cure overnight > Wax (Meguiar's or Menzerna brand) > Buff

Eugene (aka JDM_Performance here on SAU) learned from Polich Doc in Melbourne. Eugene detailed my 3x R34 GT-Rs

#1 R34 GT-R Black won the Concours Skaife award at the R34 GT-R 10th Anniv

#2 R34 GT-R Bayside Blue (above) wasn't owned for very long before being forced to choose, upon the availability of an N1 - paint thickness on every panel was about 320 microns

#3 R34 GT-R White N1 in PI Magazine #161 - paint thickness on every panel was consistently about 90 microns

Yup, very happy with Eugene - but pretty far away from you guys I'm afraid.

  • Like 1

Yes it's impressive.

It won't work unless the panel is made of metal.

C/F, Nicki or rust with give lousy readings.

The Detailer has to love what he does - with a passion!

Eugene has that passion - yet he hates gardening.

I love gardening - but but hate detailing unless I'm totally in the mood and begin by 7am , Lol

Yes it's impressive.

It won't work unless the panel is made of metal.

C/F, Nicki or rust with give lousy readings.

The Detailer has to love what he does - with a passion!

Eugene has that passion - yet he hates gardening.

I love gardening - but but hate detailing unless I'm totally in the mood and begin by 7am , Lol

Thanks for the info Terry. Amazing job done on an amazing car. It's almost worth driving down to Sydney and then glad wrapping it for the trip home haha :P

If you let him detail your N1, then Eugene must be good.

Cheers for sharing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...