Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Brakes


Direwolf
 Share

Recommended Posts

So yes I have 8 pot 330mm D2s on the front (same as K sports maybe?) and R32 GTR brakes on the rear but I think the D2s were an extravagance (need replacement rotors at over $1000 now) and would recommend the GKTech (its an Aussie company) big brake kit if it fits the Stagea (I think it should):

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=67726

Link to comment
Share on other sites

s1 = anything to suit r32/r33

s2 = anything to suit r34

Have you put r34 brakes on an s2? I am asking as I have an s2 rs (rwd) that I have put r34 gtt brakes on. The bolts were m12, r34 brakes are m14. I machined new m12 inserts for the r34 calipers. perhaps rs vs rs4 is different?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup, mine is a s2 running r34 front brakes

must be the rwd part, front struts are similar to s15 from memory so apparently rwd is the exception to the rule there

should also add r32,33 and 34 rear brakes are the same

Edited by pipster11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a 32 D2 kit on my S1.....never had an issue with em.

Bob that replacement sounds expensive, have you tried a couple of places? In any case, at least you only have to replace the rings and not whole discs including centres

The brakes themselves are great...but I got carried away at Hampton Downs a couple of weeks ago and got some serious metal to metal in the brakes. In fact they have been machined and look ok but the NZ agents for D2s cannot supply replacement rotors - only pads. I have asked around and the only source I have found are Race Brakes and they will be AP rotors (of which D2s are copies).

I haven't tried the Aussie rotor manufacturers yet but will do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...