Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

After thinking long and hard about consolidating things in general, I thought a WRX STI might make a nice alternative to a couple of cars I am thinking of letting go.

Anyway, as there are only a couple of STI dealers in Sydney I ended up at one a few hours ago.

Looked at the specs and got excited at the thought of owning one.

I went to the Chatswood dealership and must admit the service and courteousness was excellent.

No pressure, brochures given to me without having to ask, coffee, soft drink fell over them selves to be nice.

Cutting to the chase..... I asked them that I would like a test drive, what would it take?

Answer...... Do you have a licence sir? Yes.... That's all you need. A quick photocopy of my licence and a liability contract signed and they handed me the keys.

He asked if 30 minutes was enough to know if I was interested?

I said "probably"....... Off I went solo.

I allowed the car to warm up for the first 6-7 minutes but once I saw the operating temperature normal, my spirited driving increased.

As an owner of 2 R32 GT-R's (1 x ADM and 1 x JDM) both 100% stock as a rock with original radios and exhaust systems etc etc I thought this was going to be an interesting comparison.

There is simply one word that describes my experience.

Extreamely......UNDERWELMED!!!!!!!!!

A real disappointment.

Whilst on paper you have the STI at 221kw and weighing 1525kg and 206kw but we know it's closer to 230kw with boost restrictor removed and 1495kg for the JDM GT-R. There is no comparison.

The STI felt as though it weighed 1800 kgs. It had no real WOW factor once the boost came in. Sure it's quick and if the fasted car you have ever driven is a Camry then you would be impressed but as someone fortunate to have driven some really nice quick cars it's a 6/10 for me.

At $70,000 or thereabouts, I'd have buyers remorse after 2 days and watch the depreciation tare up $100 notes in front of my eyes every day.

I guess the one thing that keeps coning to mind is remembering that the ADM GT-R's were $113,000.00 22 years ago and they were that price for a reason. They are, by even todays standards brilliant motor vehicles........ Godzilla still reigns.. Long live the King.

Bob.

post-78207-0-54620100-1382852161_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-95677900-1382852162_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434092-r32-gt-r-vs-new-wrx-sti/
Share on other sites

Hiya Bob,

You asked me some similar Qs at the Mac Pass meetup at Casula as to why one would consider a car of contrast rather than buy another RB.

If you can make the next cruise (rather than have a prior commitment as you did then), you're welcome to ask me to bring the 8MR and then swap driver's seats for a bit.

Top Gear comparison tells a bit of the story - but not all, as you'd know...

Regards

New STI is also Susan Boyle ugly.... Looks like a KIA.. Designer should be shot

GC8 WRX shape is the best imo, followed by the MY03/05 shape

Not sure if it's just me but I reckon that most new-ish cars all look the same. KIA's,Hyundia,Holden,bmw etc. have very similar lines.

Edited by dyl33

In newer cars..... you just don't get 'that feeling'.

The chassis design is governed by modern safety rules, there are numerous electrical features that are unnecessary for a 'drivers car', and they feel really muted. In my opinion they will never match the 90's cars.

The 90's Japanese supercars (such as Skyline GT-R, Toyota Supra TT, Honda NSX etc) were over-engineered to respond well to tuning and they almost feel as though they are alive, they just have a lot more character.

Having owned and driven a few subies I can tell you that the later model gear is extremely asthmatic. I had a GTB manual wagon, it was a slug in standard form, after an AVO interwarmer, AVO dump and cat, HKS catback and a HKS panel filter I managed to extract some beans from it.

Stock standard they are gawd awful. No surprise that the old GTR feels different.

Nice review Bob, good read.

Looks aside, how did you find the response and low down torque of the sti compared to your bnr32?

My 32's are both stock so there isn't much difference there...... Where there is a big difference is when the boost comes in.

A 6 cylinder twin turbo vs. a 4 cylinder single turbo is the difference. The GT-R just feels a lot tougher.

Bob.

My daughter owned this WRX for 9 months until we sold it to buy a MX-5.

I loved it and pleaded with her not to sell it but it was like talking to a brick wall.

Fortunately the MX-5 is a great car too and probably a bit more suited to a 21 year old.

If I didn't already have a fleet of cars I would have tried to find a way of keeping it but that simply wasn't possible.

The new car didn't feel much faster ( or that much better) than hers but was $60,000 more!

Cheers and thanks for the favourable comments about the review. It motivates me to keep finding interesting things to discuss.

Bob.

post-78207-0-95000700-1382960942_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-42474400-1382960944_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-31875500-1382960946_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-35340500-1382960948_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-29518200-1382960960_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-85700300-1382961067_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-15960200-1382961072_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-02043100-1382961078_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-74650500-1382961145_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

My 32's are both stock so there isn't much difference there...... Where there is a big difference is when the boost comes in.

A 6 cylinder twin turbo vs. a 4 cylinder single turbo is the difference. The GT-R just feels a lot tougher.

Bob.

Bob I knew your cars were 100% factory so it's a good comparison.

Good to know the Gtr can match the sti down low, as all i ever hear is how a gtr (stock or lightly modified) cant match the 'torquey' response of a 2.5L Sti.

Edited by the spruce moose

The R32- GTR is in my humble opinion one of the true 'apex technology' cars - the true highlight of its generation.....there was nothing more.....

The current Subi isn't at that level yet. If anything the R35 GTR approaches what I would expect from an 'apex' car using todays technology.

You feel that difference.......

Cheers

The Baron

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...