Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need a RHS door mirror. Came back one day and noticed the black housing (part attached to the door/window) was cracked and mirror was hanging on its side :-( need to get the sorted ASAP. Epoxy and duct tape isn't holding very well.

Im located in Sydney btw.

  • 1 month later...

Hi Tai. Which side are you referring to as RHS? Passenger or driver? I'm after a silver mirror for the passenger side, but I don't want to hijack your post if we're after the same item... ;-)

Because if you are looking at the car front on, RHS is passenger. ..

Lol.. Left and Right are relative to the observer? :) I wish I had thought of that in school when the teacher said 'raise your right hand' :)

?? how can 'Right Hand Side' mean anything other than the drivers side?? (in Australia)

Hmm... you didn't try googling it before your comment I'd bet. There's threads on it, mainly because people aren't sure. So, if I ask the question in the post, then we're all on the same page. No harm, no cost.

So, I'm after a KY0 Brilliant Silver mirror for a Series II coupe (passenger, LHS) - I'm advised... :happy:

Edited by Stuart McK

sorry, I didn't intend to offend.. just was struggling (and still am) to understand how the RHS of a car or anything else could ever be anything but the RHS.. unless the front/rear of the object wasn't immediately obvious.

And your right.. I didn't Google, the idea that this was difficult to understand never crossed my mind..

Edited by sonicii

sorry, I didn't intend to offend.. just was struggling (and still am) to understand how the RHS of a car or anything else could ever be anything but the RHS.. unless the front/rear of the object wasn't immediately obvious.

And your right.. I didn't Google, the idea that this was difficult to understand never crossed my mind..

No problem. It's like Trav said - its a perspective thing. Anyway, I thought I'd ask.

And these suckers are harder to find 2nd-hand than I expected...

And these suckers are harder to find 2nd-hand than I expected...

It isn't like you are looking for an uncommon colour either!!

Maybe they are commonly damaged and therefore sought after??

Is it the same as a Stagea mirror? I have a silver M35 coming down here for wrecking soon...

Hi Scott. I really don't know but I checked out some images and I suspect the two models are different. I was also thinking that if the triangular mount was the same fit, if I got a pair it wouldn't matter but I'm not sure if that's the same either...

It's probably too big a risk, so thanks anyway. Stuart

Edited by Stuart McK
  • 2 weeks later...

OK team, I let my fingers do the typing and searched through Trading Post, Gumtree, eBay, japanese wreckers, etc for a used silver coupe mirror. No luck. However, I ended up finding this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-07-G35-Coupe-2-Door-Door-Mirror-Right-Passenger-Power-Heated-/131083085130?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AInfiniti%7CModel%3AG35&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e8529254a

Is black, but I could either paint it or leave it to see how it looks with other black trim on the car. Decided to run with the latter, so bought one for the other side to match. All up for heated mirror assembly both sides $180AUS shipped. The order was also shipped the same day so don't think I'll be waiting too long either.

I'll post what the quality is like when they arrive, if anyone is interested.

Umm. Do you realize left and right door mirrors are angled differently? If these are for a LHD car you might not be able to get the mirrors to adjust far enough to line the up for a RHD car.

Note- given previous posts, I thought I had better clarify Right hand drive is what we have in Aust. :)

Umm. Do you realize left and right door mirrors are angled differently? If these are for a LHD car you might not be able to get the mirrors to adjust far enough to line the up for a RHD car.

Note- given previous posts, I thought I had better clarify Right hand drive is what we have in Aust. :)

Interesting. Know that for a fact given that both sides are by design motor adjustable? Anyway, what is done is done. I could't get what I needed here...

yes, both sides are motor adjustable, but the physical housing is angled inward more when in the open position on the passenger side, so if the mirror is set central in the housing, it is roughly in the correct position for the driver. LHD mirror housing will be angled to be roughly correct for the passenger on a RHD car. The motor adjustment may have enough range to correct this, but it will likely be at the extent of the adjustment range.

If you are able to adjust them correctly, then it shouldn't be a big issue.. just thought I would let you know.

yes, both sides are motor adjustable, but the physical housing is angled inward more when in the open position on the passenger side, so if the mirror is set central in the housing, it is roughly in the correct position for the driver. LHD mirror housing will be angled to be roughly correct for the passenger on a RHD car. The motor adjustment may have enough range to correct this, but it will likely be at the extent of the adjustment range.

If you are able to adjust them correctly, then it shouldn't be a big issue.. just thought I would let you know.

OK, cheers. I'll just have to drive leaning more into the left side - or is that the right side? ;)

  • 1 month later...

Hi Stuart

What is the latest update on the mirrors? How is the positioning?

I'm in a similar predicament, my passenger side mirror has snapped off (I was in the city one night, came back from dinner and the mirror was hanging off, I think someone might have kicked it off)

I am also looking to buy from ebay from a US seller, but I am a bit concerned about the different positioning.

I wonder if its possible to use the black housing and screw my silver mirror on it, would save me the hassle of getting it painted silver.

Hi Tai. Which side are you referring to as RHS? Passenger or driver? I'm after a silver mirror for the passenger side, but I don't want to hijack your post if we're after the same item... ;-)

Hahaha sorry to bring up old posts but this cracked me up.... What side is the steering wheel on ??

/Sits back with popcorn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...