Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb34 / 24U (Rb26 + 800Cc) - Project RB high deck engine (and related builds)


Recommended Posts

May take you up on that Mitch. Base on the youtube vids I've seen and the documentation it looks pretty straight forward. I'm just making up the external map and wideband interface looms now.

I can't imagine Haltech would have left any surprises for me. Out of the box it should control the fuel pump speed and send the correct TPS signals to the Attessa right? Ive seen lots of other people have issues with these two simple things... Edit: Other ecu's of course... Wolf/vipec etc...

Edited by GTRNUR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

High/low fuel pump control is hard set at 5% throttle opening (from memory). The TPS follower for the ATTESA 100% works as per factory, as does the injection duty signal to the MFD.

The pre-loaded base map should be enough for you to get started with. Just make sure you load the calibration for your MAP sensor, set your TPS limits, enter your injector characteristics and deadtimes and away you go. Set base timing (i like to lock the CAS all the way clockwise) by enabling the ignition lock and adjusting the trigger angle. Dont forget to set the engine capacity, and if you're running an ethanol blend of fuel without a flex sensor, deduct ~33% from your injection flow rate to allow for the fuel density difference. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not necessary, it just connects to Inj1. The MFD does the rest.

If you were able to program up an 7th injector channel, it would need to be configured to have the same output pulse width as all the other injectors. Also, you would need to put a load on the output, or a pull up resistor to +12v so the MFD would be able to read the variable PWM square wave.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry no dyno time yet.

The Haltech is in now. It idles and revs. Didn't get a chance to drive it anywhere though, nor do anything but do the basic setup on the weekend.

With any luck I can take a day or two off later this week and spend some time on the phone with Mitch.

AI tell me my surge tank is still 2+ weeks away as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

More changes are still in the works. I've replaced the entire fuel system again after being talked into going down the E85 flex fuel path. So bigger injectors, more pumps, bigger fuel lines, external surge tank and bags of fittings...

It takes for ever to get parts up here too. Pay for overnight and it arrives 3+ days later.

I've yet to source and wire in a flex fuel sensor, and I've got locate a fuel cooler to mount behind the diff too.

The interesting news is that I hope to be getting Mercury Motorsports to come to Cairns to do the final tune and setup of the car. If anyone can get it to produce a good final result, I think they are certainly capable of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, For my '98 260rs... The odometer LCD occasionally turns blank or gives me only the bottom half or top half of the numbers. It's intermittent, which leaves me to believe it's a dead solder or loose wire somewhere. The odometer itself works. When the screen comes back, kms have been added to the trip and overall meters. A couple questions: Is this a known issue with the Stagea? I didn't see it pop up in my quick search, but that could be my searching skills. How accessible is the LCD screen in the cluster? I'm hoping it's a remove and replace type situation versus cracking open the whole housing. I'm hoping you all can narrow some of my initial troubleshooting. Any experience or opinions would be helpful.  
    • Yeah. Seeing the finish line must be quite the motivation. Good on you for sticking with it. Understood about the model choice. Also, totally get the challenge with sourcing parts. Based on your handle, I'm just a few hours south of you. All the little things I've bought so far come with $30 shipping, even if it's just stickers for the boot!
    • Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
×
×
  • Create New...