Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, first post on the forum. I live in California and I'm trying to get some info for a project of mine. I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I'm attempting to install an RB25det NEO engine and 5 speed transmission into. I am having a heck of a time finding a "HowTo" for wiring a NEO engine. I do not want to pay to have a harness build as I'm quite capable, provided I have the info I need to complete the job. I have been scouring the internet looking for any sort of well written how to on the topic. While I was on another forum I saw a member there who had received lots of help from a member of this forum. The member heres name is Simon, but I do not know how to get in contact with him. I'd like to speak with him to see if he would be willing to share some info with me. Below is a link to the other forum post I'm speaking about and in it you will find the reference to Simon. Simon is not the only person I'd be willing to take Info from, ANYONE with the information that is willing to share with me would be greatly appreciated. I am just looking for a basic (These are the wires you will need, ie: color/pin number, to apply switched power, ground, constant power ect) type of help. I appreciate everyones time and hope to have this project on he road soon, given your help.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/my-r34-rb25det-neo-f3-plug-pin-wire-colors-still-confused-t542427.html

Thanks again.

Thank you. I'm digging through the many many pages as we speak, trying to find the info. I'll also try contacting simon-s14 to see if he can help, if he is infact the simon the forum was speaking of.

I looked through that post and it is so long that I cant seem to find the info I'm looking for. But it made for good reading nonetheless. I also sent Simon-s14 a message. I hope to hear from him when he gets a chance. I'm going to go back through that 62 page posting looking for the info I need for my project in the mean time.

If it was my car, for the money its costs (in cal) a proffesionally made custom wiring loom would be the quickest / easiest solution

Might even be one "on the shelf"

To be honest, if I knew of a shop here in Cali that would do it for a reasonable price I'd consider going that route. The car is currently my daily driver so the less down time the better. I don't want to pull the stock engine until I'm confident that the RB is ready to drop in. The sooner the RB is ready the happier I'll be, however paying some shop (No matter how great a job they do, not knocking) $600 for a harness when I could make the same harness myself with a little info, is out of the question. I'm not against doing work the hard way (with wrenches and a soldering iron rather then with my wallet) in fact I prefer it because it gives me a since of accomplishment. But in the end, the car just needs to run and if there is a shop semi local that can do it for a reasonable price I'd happily give them my money. I'm still hopeful that Simon will chime in or I.M. me and spread a little knowledge my direction. I'll keep searching in the mean time, hopefully I'll be able to figure this out sooner rather than later.

Hello again everyone. Sorry for the delay, I have been working late these past couple days and have been unable to work on the wiring lately. So I found the post you listed (Thanks for posting it again anyway) and I have been trying to follow DJRIFT's instructions however I'm having a heck of a time. The first two wires he listed (The white/green and the white/black) were located, however I can not find the 3rd wire he lists to power up. He says to locate a Yellow/red wire just inside the firewall grommet and power it up via a 50amp fuse link. Well the only yellow/red wire I can find is a small gauge wire and when tracing it, it traces back to pin #20, which is (According to the wiring schematic) as the crank signal. In DJRIFT's how-to, he later says to power up pin 20 with switched power. So the wire I wound is obviously NOT the wire he is referring to when he says to power it up via a 50amp fuse link. After this hiccup, I'm worried that I may run into further issues. No offense to mr DJRIFT, perhaps the car he worked on was wired with different colors then my engine. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks ahead of time for the help.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...