Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Most will probably say what the f**k are you doing.

but yes, i do want to convert my rb26dett to a 26de.

Reasoning: just finish the build on my 32gtr, and i want to enjoy that. however, i still have a standard rb26 sitting around....along with a standard 72' datsun 240z...so that should clear it up abit more.

I dont ever plan on selling the s30 and im tossing up between keeping it original l24 or going rb. my reasoning towards the rb conversion is that since i dont plan on selling it and keeping the L24. i might as well go all out...

What kind of things would need to be done to convert the standard rb26 to a na screamer. im awayre of the pistons to up the compression. but any thing else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435033-rb26dett-to-rb26de/
Share on other sites

imagine this...

a RB26DE, with super high comp, with HKS V Cam (optional if you want any low end), stupid duration cams, 6 flutes and a redline at 10k in a 240Z...

brap brap brap brap brap brap

but say if you skimmed the head all the way to a 10:1 surely it wouldn't be "that" bad right?

10k redline N/A ITB would be sick.. and stupid as long duration cams, but of course will need some form of VCT to give it more poke down low.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=104694.0

/\ Here

from the topic

IMG_4531.jpg?t=1230424228

What it has:

Adaptronic ECU
1 Bar Haltech Map Sensor

Nismo Pressure Plate
Chromoly Flywheel
Cushioned Button Clutch

Series 2 R33 GT-R Head
Camtech Cams 290 degree (seat to seat), 263 degree (50 thou), 11.5mm lift - Biggest for RB26 from Camtech at the time
Adjustable Cam Gears
Supertech Valve springs
Supertech Valve Stem Seals
Bosch 440cc Injectors
Nitto Intake and Exhaust Gaskets
Nitto 1.8mm Head Gasket
Head Stud Kit for RB30DE/T setup
Running very close to 12:1 compression
RB25DE Pistons (slightly shaved)
Mahle Motorsport Ring Set
Balanced Rods
Tomei Oil Restrictors
ACL Race Main Bearings
ACL Race Big End Bearings
Crank has been grub screwed
Crankshaft oil pump drive collar
R33 GTS-T Oil Pump
R32 GT-R Water Pump
Ross Tuffbond Harmonic Balancer
Lewis Engines Race Sump 7.5lts Gated
Splitfire Coilpacks
Rebuilt HR31 GTS-X radiator
Head to Sump oil/air separator


Tuned Equal Length Hurricane Extractors
2.5" Mandrel Bent Exhaust
3" Stainless Steel Cat
Hotdog
Mega flow rear muffler (straight through style).

topic property of DMN NA R31sc.com

Edited by GH05T

i would honestly rather keep the Z n/a. and what better engine for it than the rb. i dont really care about the power, my gtr is there for that. Im all down for the screaming high revs bouncing off trees when i go for a drive. i think it would be better if i just na a rb26dett rather than buy a 1 of 200 autech rb26? last i heard they were goin for 6k...IF you can find one. LOL. rb26/30 na would be affordable.. jsut swap over some parts n vwoahlah. (ok maybe not that easy) but within reach. ive been trying to source a autech rb26....not happening.. =\

i pm'd him. hopefully he replies. im hoping to go to his workshop since he is fr sydney, and check out his work. his build showed it got 170rwkw... which isnt much. but from a FR car that weighs 1000kg and an engine that can rev over 9k. mmmmm

Why not RB25DE NEO ?

Why not RB25DE NEO ?

Great option.

It's never going to be a power house like a turbo motor. But this would be a great option. Cheap motor, set it up using headers and ITBs. No need to even open it, besides cams. Enjoy the noise and cruise in a awesome sounding and looking car.

Leave the power to the R.

DO IT

skimmed the head because the 8.5:1 compression will suck donkey cock, bring it to like 9.5:1 or even more if the pistons don't foul the valves.

then mod the intake plenum and install 6 flutes, bring the rev limiter up to 10k (I'm sure it will spin easily to that safely as it's now making 1/2 the power)

then whack on some retarded long duration cams...

brap brap brap brap hahah

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...