Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome, this has made my week.

I actually rang Shannons yesterday regarding this before I saw this thread and I was told I would save approx. $400/y on insurance alone if the car had club reg.

I was just about to send of application forms to Classic Skylines Australia because I thought club reg. may never happen through SAU, this is great news since I'd still be be much happier doing club events with SAU.

Can someone please clarify if the 25 year rule takes the build date into consideration?

If so, where is the build plate that states what month the car was built? I've got two plates I can find in my engine bay that, one silver tag with '609000HCR32066791'

the other blue plate says:

E-HCR32

HCR32-066791

RCR32GFSM GC

KG1 G

RB20DET 1998 cc

FS5W71C RC43

Not sure if any of this info refers to the build month.

Also,

Lets just say that someone with a 25yo skyline has had an RB25 conversion with all supporting upgrades that hasn't been engineered yet, but otherwise the car is in near perfect roadworthy condition (needs new rear discs), could it be put on club reg. without engineers certificate if it passes everything else?

Apologies if this has already been answered before in another thread?

Cheers,

Rob

25 year rule is meant to take build into consideration.

so from your VIN

July 1990

so 18 months till worry about.

engine swaps are technically allowed

however you need to show it is done well, all the brakes and such is done and the car is safe.

If a car is modified, VIC Roads may ask for a VASS certificate. Not sure if they actually enforce it though


25 year rule is meant to take build into consideration.

so from your VIN

July 1990

so 18 months till worry about.

engine swaps are technically allowed

however you need to show it is done well, all the brakes and such is done and the car is safe.

Dang..

Thanks for looking that up for me Martin, I had no idea. For some reason I thought it was built earlier and something dodgy had been done to comply it as a 90 when I brought it in.

Everything else is above board with the car, pretty confident car would pass a roadworthy with new rear discs as long as height adjustable coil-overs are ok.

If a car is modified, VIC Roads may ask for a VASS certificate. Not sure if they actually enforce it though

thanks Tony, I guess with 18months to wait there will be plenty of people that will test the water before my car is eligible.

Someone over at aus300zx just had his 89' club rego'd and the rules seem to be for imports it's only the year of manufacture that counts as they have no way of confirming the build date. Therefore come Jan 1 of your year you can get in

  • 2 weeks later...

You can drive all day everyday if you like but only for 45 - 90 days a year. Depending on the permit you purchase.

If you are driving past midnight you just need to fill in the log book for the next day.

Ah ok, thanks for that.

this is good news...1 year to go can i club reg my cressi or is it skylines only?...then if i hang onto the skyline for 4 more years..:P

so sick of paying 700$ a year for a car that gets driven a handful of times...

Is there a limit on the amount of cars I could have under club reg?

So according to what people are saying here I can put a ls1 or rb25/6 in r32 or or s13 but dont need a engineer/vass certificate aslong as its a clean properly done setup? How about emmissions?

Dosnt vicroads say u need a eng certificate for major modifications?

Classic and historic
– manufactured after 31 December 1930, but more than 25 years before the date of the application for a club permit; or
Street rod
– manufactured more than 25 years before the date of application for a club permit and modified in excess of the guidelines contained within the Vehicle Standards Information
No. 8 (VSI8),
Guide to Modifications for Motor Vehicles
;

Modified vehicles should really be on Street rod plates , Original or close to original vehicles should be on Historic plates.

Suspension or Cancellation of Permit
VicRoads may suspend a club permit if it reasonably suspects that
(
a) the vehicle operated under the club permit is not an eligible vehicle; or
(
b) the permit holder is failing to comply with any of the conditions of the club permit; or
(
c) the permit holder has disposed of a vehicle and has not destroyed the club permit label and the vehicle's log book and removed the number plates
(
d) the permit holder is engaging in conduct which threatens public safety or undermines the integrity of the club permit scheme.

Not only does this effect the person and the car that is caught doing the wrong thing, it will also come down on the club/ safety inspector if the club doesn't require RWC for club reg.

Refer club permit application form:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/4BC78D16-7C1D-4DCC-B0E7-A3932C2FD2DF/0/ClubPermitApplicationFeb2011.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...