Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there,

my series 1 stagea is sitting at stock height and has 18inch wheels.... i noticed it has the floating feel when driving, the rear tends to float over bumps and gives the feeling that its following any grooves or bumps or ditches in the road... i had similar thing in the past with my commodore wagon and a hilux but am told its because they are light in the rear end...

is there anything i can do to try and sort the issue, i do not want to put coilovers in can't afford and i dont want to lower...

First thing to look at would be your rear dampers. If they're old/worn-out then they will definitely make the rear end feel floaty. If they check out to be good, then the next step would be to inspect the UCA and LCA bushes. After 15 years the stock items will be on their way out.

It is a wagon after all, and is built with a large empty box at the back. On my old worn set of tyres, getting down to a quarter tank of fuel was like an arcade drift game...

something other than worn tires is causing that.

thanks for the info, its had an alignment and is on brand new tyres...not sure of profile size, i will get the dampers and bushes checked out this week.......as for replacement ones if it is the scenario what kind of price range would i be looking at?

you dont need to lower your car, a stock high ride height is fine and shouldnt feel dangerous.

take it to pedders or somewhere that will do a full check testing shocks and componants.

theywill try and sell you everyting pedders under the sun but just get the check done and go from there.

Just my 2c, when I had a pedders 28 point inspection, they missed everything wrong with the suspension. When I paid $120 for a reputable workshop to do an inspection they came up with a very very thorough list (also more than the suspension). Most opinions on pedders are about as flattering.

*** However, I should add that I did not agree with everything on the comprehensive list. I also made more cost effective repairs eg, the workshop wanted to replace the entire strut and spring assembly just to replace the shock. I replaced the shocks myself.

I guess my experience was almost the opposite. I knew something (or several things) was wrong in the suspension and pedders didn't pick up on them. - as opposed to workshops usually racking up unnecessary repairs.

yeah get what your saying zoomzoom... i would go tomorrow and buy a set of coilovers if i could believe me and i think if our 2nd child wasn't so close to due date i would... but it sucks the floating when i am driving on my own in car but once there is a little weight from family being car its almost non existent.... and i can't really lower the car at the moment with my wife so close u know

Lowering the car isn't going to make any difference. Stock height is not causing the problem.

Yes it does , lowering the car puts constant pressure on the strut and pre- loads the suspension , its a short term cheap fix without replacing stock struts .

Like i said , this fixed my problem and very well .

Now i run Bilstiens with Tein lowering springs actually works better for street ride and will outlast any coilover .

Then again coilovers might be your best option to keep stock ride height ?

Bad advice going to pedders ……...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...