Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts25T Front Tie Rod Info Needed .

discopotato03
 Share

Recommended Posts

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi all , I searched forever trying to find front tie rods preferably genuine Nissan but there is nothing specific .

I gather that they are 278-285mm total length and that the rack end thread is 16 x 1 or 1.5 and the tie rod end joint is 14 x 1.5mm ? Some claim R32 and R33 RWD are the same and others reckon the outer end thread is 12mm in R32s .

I searched to see if R34 GTT ones are the same because JJ has them but they don't mention compatible with R33 GTS25T .

I need an OS front one for rego soonest so can anyone tell me where to buy them or if any other locally sold model ie S14 S15 is the same ?

Cheers Adrian .

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

i suggest Roadsafe rack ends and tie rods, available thru Bursons. About $50 each I think, for rack ends? I ordered R34 ends and rods and they were the same as those on my r33 s2.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for that , I noticed on Just Japs site that they sell Hard Race rack ends or tie rods as I call them and the ones for R34s are mentioned as suitable for R33s and S14s - and even R32s if you use 14mm thread outer or tie rod ends . Only for RWD Skylines BTW .

JJ also sells genuine R34 rack ends but not shown as suiting anything else .

A .

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

i suggest Roadsafe rack ends and tie rods, available thru Bursons. About $50 each I think, for rack ends? I ordered R34 ends and rods and they were the same as those on my r33 s2.

I use them too, decent brand and to be honest look better built than the factory ones. I've taken it on the track a few times, bashed them into ripple strips etc.. and they're still good.

But knowing disco, he won't use dim sim products on his car.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Depends if it gets the SK stamp of approval .

From All Safe R34 RWD rack ends or tie rods if you like are 290mm total length , the socket thread is 16x1mm and the outer end is 14x1.5 . Pn RE7081 .

The matching rod ends are 100mm long and the Pn is TE926 + 14 .

Nissans that use the same rack ends are 200SX S14 (10/96 on) , U13 Bluebird , N15 Pulsar 2.0L , R34 RWD . R33 RWD not listed assume same ?

Ditto rod ends Maxima A32 (91-99) , N15 2.0L , R32 4WD , R33 all , R34 all .

Will look into the Hard Race rack ends because from JJ they are around half the price of genuine for a larger diameter rod .

A .

Edited by discopotato03
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you look at their catalogue they don't mention a front rack end slash tie rod for RWD R33 . I tend to think they are the same as N15 2L/late S14 200SX/R34 RWD because they are all from approximately the mid 90s era and use the same thread sizes . I'm not sure if R34 rear drive was any different to the R33s front suspension and steering geometry wise .

A .

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

Ahhh k. Yeah i put that down to them just never actually measuring/fitting one to an r33, so they're not putting they ass on the line saying they fit. As mentioned i took a shot znd just bought them, they were about 3mm longer, basically exactly the same and fitted fine.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

R33 and R34 suspension is all basically same same. It's a very fair bet that the steering gear is same same also. The only reason R33 is different from R32 is that after a few years of experience with the R32 design Nissan worked out where it was weak/wrong and fixed it a bit for the R33.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I think Nissan went through generations where in the late 80s early 90s they had things like N13s S13s and R32s and towards the early mid 90s it changed to N14 S14 R33 and later N15 S15 and R34 . Generally speaking the cars got larger and or heavier and it sometimes shows in the suspension and steering componentry .

In this case the rod end threads went from 12 to 14mm to take larger outer joints .

Also thanks for confirming the difference in rod length , I noticed in that catalogue similar rods of different lengths for various models which could be interesting to those fiddling with steering geometry .

I've gotta talk to Gary and see if he likes the Hard Race rack ends because I can get them off Just Jap if they have stock .

Cheers A .

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I finally got Garys ear and he knows nothing about Hard Race stuff . He did say that OE sized inner tie rods are hardly weak and anyway it's better to bend them than trash a rack if you hit something hard .

Very interestingly he said he knew the Roadsafe agent a few years back and what came out of their boxes was Nissan OE parts so bonus $ wise .

Here is a snapshot of the Skyline section of their catalogue (which anyone can download for their site) so you can see their listings .

Note R33 2WD outer tie rod ends but no rack end part shown . R34 2WD uses the same outer joint and people here have used the 34 inner/rod so I'll get sets and do both sides .

Thanks all , cheers Adrian .

post-9594-0-65974100-1388783067_thumb.png

  • 2 weeks later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After all this just ended up needing outer tie rod ends supplied by Bursons . The RoadSafe ones were a little longer than the originals but still got us 1mm toe out per side to suit the SK Whiteline Bilstein kit under my car .

Before the alignment I raised the front height two grooves to the highest setting and it drives nicely now . I remember asking Gary how to increase the front roll stiffness on this car and he commented that taking the height up would do that . It's what happens when the lower control arms angle up towards the hubs instead of downwards .

Having 16mm extra suspension travel won't hurt and the poor old air dam should touch down less often ...

A .

  • 6 months later...
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

are you meaning the kingpin that has the hole for the split pin to go through? I don't know if you will find a torque setting, or maybe you will. But it varies, as you need it tight, and then turn more/less to line the slots in the nut with the hole in the kingpin.

dyl33 Mentor

dyl33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Should it be hard to fill new tie rod end with grease(zerk fittings). I've got 2-3 pumps of grease in there but the boot hasn't expended or anything and it won't let any more in. Is there a trick to this? Car need to be on the ground or something. I'm stumped!

Edited by dyl33
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

FYI, pedders listed 3 different sizes of thread for front tie rod ends from memory. Had to go out and measure the tie rods on my car to get the right ones. It might be as simple as GTS, GTS-t and GTR, but for some reason I don't remember it being that easy. Best thing to do is to get under the car and meausre the thickness of the tie rod before buying tie rod ends to confirm you are getting what you need

Just so everyone knows, it may only be an issue in the Pedders catalog, but still doesnt hurt to know these things

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      new here

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...