Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ladies & Gents,

I'm new here.

My son & his best mate are having trouble removing the rear rotors on a 92 Skyline two door.

Is there any procedure or hidden part that has to be removed before the rotor can be removed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, John.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437663-rear-rotors/
Share on other sites

Rear rotor incorporates the handbrake. Did they engage the handbrake before starting this procedure? Otherwise, they might need to loosen off the handbrake shoes.

Also, I recall sometimes the disk requires pushing off using the threaded 8mm(?) holes in the hat of the rotor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437663-rear-rotors/#findComment-7171039
Share on other sites

Just found some new information guys. The car is a R32 gts that has had a 5-stud R33 GTST conversion befopre the car was bought. The rear discs do have the rubber gromet that pops out to adjust the brake shoes. They were adjusted to their loosest. However, these discs did not have the smaller holes to put the bolts in. Does anybody know what these dics may be off and how to get them off? Cheers for the qucik replies guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437663-rear-rotors/#findComment-7171118
Share on other sites

I use a steel hammer and whack the sh*t out of them (copper hammer would be better but I don't have one).

Squirt some CRC or WD40 on the studs.

Make sure handbrake is right off.

Check to see there are no retaining screws.

Firstly I hit the centre near the studs inwards quite hard (the wrong way) to try to break the bond.

Then tap around the outside while exerting outward pressure (the same way that you are tapping) with a lever of some sort (large screw driver or pinch bar)

Work your way around and try to rotate the disc from time to time.

Are you quite sure there are no threaded holes to wind a bolt in? We are talking about the outside face here not the inside.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437663-rear-rotors/#findComment-7171566
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Any success getting the rotors/discs off?

I found this thread with good info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/97404-r32-stuck-trying-to-remove-rear-rotor/


When I removed the front rotors/pads, I was told to make sure to break-in the pads (i.e. drive real fast - brake hard, ride the brakes for 5-10 seconds, blah blah blah). Is there a procedure for breaking in rear pads or can I simply install new discs/pads and ride to work the next day?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437663-rear-rotors/#findComment-7182906
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...