Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A tuner wants to install a spitronics ecu, he suggested to install a single large throttle body on MY RB26DETT which currently has 6 ITBs, he also will do away with the MAFs,He is going to upgrade my turbos with steel shafts, he promised me between 350-400kw after he his complete. Will my throttle response be affected by going single Throttle body? Is this recommended?

Yes throttle response will be (negatively) affected by doing that. It is hard to get any better throttle response than what you get from 6x ITB.

I wouldn't do it. If he needs a vacuum signal to run a MAP sensor, he could use the existing tapping points on the runners to get it.

supposedly it's easier to tune with a single throttle body rather than the ITBs. RIPS here in nz uses a single for almost all of builds.

But they're mostly massive power engines destined for the drag strip rather than street or track.

Laziness. The myth of easier tuning goes back to the 90s in Japan tuning with shitty add on HKS modules and not being able to deal with AFMs. They'd convert to MAP, and single throttle to achieve it.

This is no longer true. People know how to swap to bigger AFMs, how to tune with them, etc etc. No point in removing ITBs.

Laziness. The myth of easier tuning goes back to the 90s in Japan tuning with shitty add on HKS modules and not being able to deal with AFMs. They'd convert to MAP, and single throttle to achieve it.

This is no longer true. People know how to swap to bigger AFMs, how to tune with them, etc etc. No point in removing ITBs.

so are you saying afms are

in some way better than running a map sensor?

In some ways, yes, in others, no.

I run a map sensor just in case a cooler pipe pops off, my car will keep driving. This becomes more of an issue the higher boost you go.

AFM's are better at metering small changes in air velocity, and can be easier to tune for some. They will let you know if there is an intake leak by ruining the tune and running rich.

Why not run both? I do. :P

post-63525-0-39629700-1390185725_thumb.jpeg

which one does your ecu follow as the master sensor?

Map atm, but I have tuned with both before, AFM to 2psi them Map. It worked very well.

The auto gearbox needs the afm signal for line pressure adjustment...

I wouldnt even take the car back .If the guy cant tune an ECU with multiple throttle bodies, or is in any way scared of them, then hes not up to the task.

As has already been said its an old school thing that has no bearing on todays products.

I would use a MAP sensor only because, in my experience, they are less likely to fail. For some reason i have seen quite a few dud AFM's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...