Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Tried to search for the issue, but I didn't have much luck finding anything relating directly to my issue.

Car has a stock blow off valve, plumbed back. Decided to make a plate to block it off, you know for flutter/dose/compressor surge whatever you want to call it.

Car runs great, starts fine, idles fine, holds boost, flutters...

But if I am idling and rev it slightly, then take my foot off the throttle, it hunts for a while then goes back to idling fine. Sometimes it drops to 100-200 rpm, sometimes just to 600, stalled a couple times. It doesn't ALWAYS do it. It is mainly a concern when I am in traffic and need to move forward slightly. Black smoke also comes out the exhaust when hunting. Rich?

Is it because it was tuned with the plumb back blow off and it is expecting that air for idle and isn't receiving it? I have blocked the vacuum line going to the bov and the plumb back pipe. I haven't tried plumbing the bov back in and taking out the blanking plate. Will do that soon and report back.

R34 gt-t rb25det neo
Garret low mount on 18psi
avc-r boost controller
power fc

supporting mods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438450-bov-making-car-hunt/
Share on other sites

It's because of the reverberation caused affecting the afm.

The ecu sees it as more airflow and adds fuel.

Flutters are not cool enough to put up with your car running shit.

Edited by superben

Or plumb it back and live a happy life. :)

this...seems pretty simple to me mate...you changed something and it made it worse...

Now 'Im not the sharpest tool in the shed but i'd thunk the smart thing to do would be change it back ;)

Mine fluttered with an AFM, had the bov plumbed straight into the intake pipe at 90 degrees, not facing the turbo as recommended. Never had any issues

Mine didnt flutter like crazy because I softened the bov but when it did it was fine

Mine fluttered with an AFM, had the bov plumbed straight into the intake pipe at 90 degrees, not facing the turbo as recommended. Never had any issues

Mine didnt flutter like crazy because I softened the bov but when it did it was fine

If it flutters, the BOV is supposed to be blocked, doesn't matter if it is plumbed or not..

Yeahhhhh.... It will flutter blocked or with the BOV spring tightish. It isnt 'supposed' to be bocked

How do you tighten the BOV spring?

I didn't think the flutter would have have as much as effect as it did on my car, it is a low mount garret with a LARGE FMIC, and no forward facing plenum. So much frikken pipe work, wouldn't have thought it would have made it that far back..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...