Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, chucking together another engine, trying out with a NA RB20 on jungle juice e85, was running a TD06 20g on the last 20(DET), made around 300rwkw, super happy with the response, lag was never an issue, have another car i use for small tracks which has response, this engine will be more for open tracks, wanna see what i can stretch the little 20 to, more of an experiment more than anything. Have a HKS twin scroll mani i'm using, and still have the TD06 although it may be in need of some love (it's had a good innings), also have a precision 6265. precision is a bit of a jump, but considering it's there and wont cost me anything, i'd be willing to try it, i've definitely had laggier setups, then change if it proves too much of an issue.

The td06 25g is an obvious option, but i'd like to see if i could utilise the twin scroll manifold, ideally a ball bearing turbo, and with the high compression, squeeze around 330rwkw with around the same lag as the td06 20g, at less boost (26psi, had control issues). the limiter is going up to 8000rpm and possibly up to 4.6's from 4.1's. any ideas on a good turbo in that range, BB twin scroll, or is it not worth it?

while i'm at it, looking into a forwards facing plenum setup, possibly adapting the RB26 itb setup, but unsure if it will help with midrange, or hinder. For me, the benefits of simplicity and clearance with them are extremely beneficial out on the track, so i'd like to justify one performance wise as well. any thoughts on that one too?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438851-rb20det-300kw-range/
Share on other sites

6265 is way too big...they are a bit laggy on 2.5s but will make 400+

T67-25g would be my pick if you aren't fussed on having to rev it to the moon and back

Sooooooo....buy some good valve springs and rev that mofo!!!

i ran the precision on a 25 with a cheap chinese intake manifold and cheap NZ s/p ex mani (junk, but bought car as is), and it was pretty laggy but worked, only issue was when i went up to competition tyres, the clutch was too doey to keep the rpm up for it's setup. but it is a v-band housing-manifold, and it was running a cheap v-band so was leaking like a sieve. the 32 runs a much bitier clutch, hopefully decent plenum, the hks mani with no leaks, higher rpm (and higher ratio to suit), so i'd imagine it would be on par if not maybe a bit better even without the extra 500cc capacity. after currently running the same td06 turbo on both RB25 and RB20, i can say with all confidence that i much prefer the RB20's setup, however it did run e85 and more boost, but it was much stronger through the power region which counted for me (top end). The RB25 i run now with TD06 20g is better on the low speed stuff, but the 20 was still managable on the low speed, but had way more to give on the higher speed stuff.

rb20de+T will work well for response... drop in det cam shafts as they are different... adjst cam gear advance intake and retard zorst will net you more response.

intake mani- the ones that bolts on top of the factory one are bent to be better due to longer runners, although the ones like greedy one piece will hinder power/response due to shorter runners

hypergear aint doing too bad, check out the ss range

only going to 8000rpm so standard springs should be sweet, i assume they are the same de and det even though there are slight lift differentials?

as far as intake, i'd love the ITB's, really like throttle response, if it's too much work i won't bother, but it'd be ideal if i could utilise it. Just not sure how, looked into cutting and shutting, but where? possibly cutting off the runners right at the flange, running some tubing with a laser cut flange to suit rb20? could be a chance to add some length to runners if they are a little short standard. not sure how that will play with fuel delivery but will be run with motec m500 which should allow some control.

only going to 8000rpm so standard springs should be sweet, i assume they are the same de and det even though there are slight lift differentials?

as far as intake, i'd love the ITB's, really like throttle response, if it's too much work i won't bother, but it'd be ideal if i could utilise it. Just not sure how, looked into cutting and shutting, but where? possibly cutting off the runners right at the flange, running some tubing with a laser cut flange to suit rb20? could be a chance to add some length to runners if they are a little short standard. not sure how that will play with fuel delivery but will be run with motec m500 which should allow some control.

think its slight lift and duration difference which might cause power band issues, seeing that your after as much power as you can get out of it . should just rack them out of the broken det

Not any real input, just a question. Wouldn't running ~26psi on a DE+T kill it very very quickly? I know running ethanol will help but surely running high comp and high boost would lead to extremely high cylinder pressures that the NA rods just can't cope with? Don't really know too much about all this stuff, hence the question. Genuinely curious.

going to give it a whirl, plenty examples around with 30de and 25de's, i'm not planning on running 26psi, that was my old setup on the DET, it actually ran aroud 30psi most of the time due to control issues. never bothered to fix it as it never had any problem running it all day every day haha.

plan is to run 17-20psi (maybe higher if the turbo i use needs it), the E85 is pretty amazing stuff. afaik RB20DE rods are the same as RB20DET rods? or at least strength wise. haven't pulled one apart yet to confirm, if they are weaker that'd be very usefull info. main worry atm is lack of oil squirters, but looking at RB30's i'm thinking it's not the end of the world.

na rods and DET rods are the same, in fact the whole bottom end construction is the same, just the CR changes. also boost pressure doesnt kill engines (to a point) rather its excess or uncontrolled cyln pressures that does. if you can get the tune right and control the combustion you'll have a happy engine that runs right!

thankfully Nisskid and myself have a tuner who is more then switched on enough to do the job. case in point is my own car that just keeps going and making 400+ rwkw on stock rb30e bottom end

na rods and DET rods are the same, in fact the whole bottom end construction is the same, just the CR changes. also boost pressure doesnt kill engines (to a point) rather its excess or uncontrolled cyln pressures that does. if you can get the tune right and control the combustion you'll have a happy engine that runs right!

thankfully Nisskid and myself have a tuner who is more then switched on enough to do the job. case in point is my own car that just keeps going and making 400+ rwkw on stock rb30e bottom end

Wouldn't running more boost increase cylinder pressure? Or is the difference between 10 (standard) and 26 psi hardly worth noting when cylinder pressure is so high anyway?

9:1 compression ratio means that whatever you put in there to start with gets squeezed up to 9 times the original pressure. If you start with no boost at all, then you end up with about 9 times atmospheric pressure. If you run 10 psi boost on top of atmospheric, then you have (14.7 + 10)/14.7 to start with and then you squeeze that 9 times. So now instead of maybe 132 psi, you have maybe 222 psi. And if you were to start with 26 psi of boost, the ratio now gives you 366 psi.

So, yeah, 26 psi does make a hell of a difference to cylinder pressures compared to 10 psi. That's the whole point.

** Note that I've only done simple ratios up there and haven't taken into consideration any aspects of head flow efficiency or non-adiabatic compression effects etc etc. It's just for illustration.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

this is what im going off.

still struggling with turbo choice, thinking about grabbing a new rear housing, maybe a touch smaller and twin scroll (assuming that's possible, feel a bit rookie asking, but i assume twin and single scroll internals are the same besides the housing, blade design isn't different?) for the precision, here are my choices
https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2169&cat_key=596&prodname=Precision+T4+V-band+Turbine+Housings%2C+Twin+Scroll

.82

1.00
1.15
1.32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...