Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok gys I've decided to start off with i will just go for

-Fender brace

-Floor brace (behind front seats)

-Tension rod bar (easy to find)

Not sure where I will get them from or what brand but hopefully I end up finding something.

Ultimately though The bracing I want to get most done was something to prevent Flex along the horizontal axis dead smack in the middle of the car, so thats why a multi point underbody brace would have been perfect, but I have yet to find one for a GTS.

Do you guys know what these braces are called and where to get them

trunk+brace.jpg

instaleld.jpg

Edited by sonicz

This whole topic just screams waste of money, sorry but i was young once and i spent money on useless items too but i didnt have these forums to learn from others though.

Dont waste your time or money on this car, drive it be satisfied and save to get something better in the future.

In truth all braces will do something. I remember when I first put my suspension tower brace on and there was in fact a noticeable difference provided you adjust it so it is actually putting tension on the towers. Then of course the usual Bilstein, coils thing. Big difference. Then after a few track days took the car off the road and decided stuff it, I'll start at the heart of the problem. The subframe. Every bush changed. Some difference there. Every suspension arm, bush, tie rods, ball joints, there is nothing left on that car that's sloppy. I love it, precise, sharp steering. Out of all that was changed I would have to say the biggest difference was the suspension arm bushes. Polyurethane everywhere. Steering rack as well. My experience anyway. Out on the track the car is worlds apart from the standard suspension. A side note: don't mistake flex at speed with the tyres fully loaded under cornering as chassis flex if you have street tyres on it, it's just side wall flex.

Those chassis braces you are looking at are seriously flawed but I suppose if all of them combined make a difference then go for it. Always remember the least flexing shape is a box. Putting chassis braces under the floor won't do much except give your suspension points less flex but your actual body will still be flexing. The proper way to do it would be to weld a 4 point cage in between front and back seats but only if welding the top of the cage to the top of the B-pillars. Now you have a far superior chassis to play with.

  • Like 1

What exactly are you comparing your car to? Mine feels plenty tight enough with softish coilovers, subframe collars, a couple of bushes changed to polyurethene ones and a front strut brace.

I think once I do sway bars ill be pretty damn happy with it, will be very nice for a street car

Does the car have any previous accident damage? Im not sure how tight you want it to be so not sure if its just something not quite right with the car or its just not quite at the standard you want

not sure if do-luck has it for your car but maybe u can get some ideas?

they have this brace along the length of the car... made of aluminium. called the floor support bar.

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/assistbar/floorsupportbar/index.html

then there is the rear cross bar that sits behind the front seats to prevent mid chassis flex... worked wonders for my S13 then. u can even tension it.

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/assistbar/rearcrossbar/index.html

also, nismo has something for the GTR... again, maybe it might give u some ideas? under floor reinforcing bar

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lb/reinforcing.html

Those Nismo ones that require you to bolt to the chassis rails would not be likely to be legal here in Aus. They require modification of the chassis rails which is generally a no no. Also, most Skyline chassis rails are already dented upwards in that area (already a defect) due to lack of ground clearance / driving over bricks or whatever. Bolting on something to further reduce clearance there isn't a great idea.

Just something else to think about.

^^ I think only the Ultra Racing brace reduces ground clearance, all the nismo brace don't do this, if you have a look at both picture on the nismo site, the lowest point if either the gearbox mount or exhaust

EDIT: The picture posted by Sonicz from the r33-gtr.com website is the stock brace that comes in s15s rear boot, just find someone wrecking s15s and you can easily score them for next to nothing

Edited by ichi-go

^^ I think only the Ultra Racing brace reduces ground clearance, all the nismo brace don't do this, if you have a look at both picture on the nismo site, the lowest point if either the gearbox mount or exhaust

EDIT: The picture posted by Sonicz from the r33-gtr.com website is the stock brace that comes in s15s rear boot, just find someone wrecking s15s and you can easily score them for next to nothing

No. Look at this one from Nismo

img_bnr34f.jpg

It's under the chassis rails.

Cage it from front to rear. 1.75"x.250" chromoly tubing. Put it on a frame jig to keep the uni-body frame straight. Only way to get what you're looking for. All this bracing from Japanese manufactures is big $$$$. Over priced for what it is to me. Find an actually race shop not just a average joe. Race shops been there and done that. Probably answer your questions better also.

Examples:

post-116132-13933971845538_thumb.jpgpost-116132-13933972005261_thumb.jpgpost-116132-13933972151734_thumb.jpg

Obviously this is a S-Chassis but it's all the same. Car gets tweaked every direction and all is good.

Do it. brace everything. Report back.

Thats not really the approach I can tak as it seems really difficult to come across some of these items let alone everything. I was hoping to find used bits here and there I can just bolt to the car for cheap, and to be honest I had my heart set on a multi point underbody brace the most. Definitely no roll cages and intrusive bars in the cabin.

So far just getting the tension rod bar and STILL looking for a fender brace but cant find one.

This whole topic just screams waste of money, sorry but i was young once and i spent money on useless items too but i didnt have these forums to learn from others though.

Dont waste your time or money on this car, drive it be satisfied and save to get something better in the future.

Yup that makes a lot of sense. I have seen wreckers selling parts or even throwing away body parts like this so I figured it would be a cheap exercise. I was wrong.

What exactly are you comparing your car to? Mine feels plenty tight enough with softish coilovers, subframe collars, a couple of bushes changed to polyurethene ones and a front strut brace.

I think once I do sway bars ill be pretty damn happy with it, will be very nice for a street car

Does the car have any previous accident damage? Im not sure how tight you want it to be so not sure if its just something not quite right with the car or its just not quite at the standard you want

I'm comparing my 33 to almost every other car I have driven, and it just creaks and bends and wobbles on driveways and over bumps. The chassis feels like its made of halumi cheese. It takes seconds for the body to finish reacting to a bump. I Have driven other R33s and they feel very stiff and taught in comparison.

Mine must've had a hard life since the previous owner lived in a rural area so probably many wobbly up down roads, and my driveway is on a funny sideways diagonal angle making the car softer each time I drive in and out.

Subframe collars probably did your car a lot of good. Mine is stock in that regard, but I do have some poly bushes and a strut bar.

Have a look at what this Japanese owner says about the body.

"3. Usual used GT-R's body have come loose. The parts to tighten such a loosen-body are available at HKS-Kansai.

These are the photos of my R33 GT-R, showing the body reinforcement parts, I installed the "refresh-bar" of HKS-Kansai. This parts is very good to reinforce the body. This refresh-bar is designed for not making sacrifices for daily use of the car."

http://www.geocities.jp/r33gtruser/usedgtr.html

Also have a look at what nissan did with the next few cars they built after the 33 and 34. Look at all the chassis bracing on a stock 350z.

http://youtu.be/aG6X72FS6gc?t=20m48s

not sure if do-luck has it for your car but maybe u can get some ideas?

then there is the rear cross bar that sits behind the front seats to prevent mid chassis flex... worked wonders for my S13 then. u can even tension it.

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/assistbar/rearcrossbar/index.html

The 33 is listed there but not really sure how you order from there. I was hoping somebody has these bits used in AUS.

Edited by sonicz

just had another look at the products on the Ultra Racing site, and first thing tomorrow I am having my solicitors draft a letter to them requesting they change their name to Ultra-Anus, reflective of the usefulness of their parts. I would seriously look at the bolt-in cage idea for stiffening the chassis, a cusco cage, that allows use of front and rear seata, will only be about $850 delivered, which is only the price of a few of those braces, just in one lump sum.

It really does sound like you need new bushes mate, if the car takes a while to settle from a corner or a bump? Creaking? This would be due to worn out bushes and shocks.

If you can't afford all of them at once, just get upper and lower control arm bushes first, swaybar bushes are cheap. And then buy some solid strut tower bars front and rear and some sway bars front and rear and new shocks front and rear.

No. Look at this one from Nismo

img_bnr34f.jpg

It's under the chassis rails.

Yeah but if you look further down the pic towards the middle/side, you can see the gearbox crossmember is the same height as the brace hence why it wouldnt reduce clearance

The Ultra-Racing one however is different story as the mount where the bolts go to come downwards and will reduce clearance

EDIT: The picture posted by Sonicz from the r33-gtr.com website is the stock brace that comes in s15s rear boot, just find someone wrecking s15s and you can easily score them for next to nothing

st

Sorry I missed this. Its probably the most relevant post in this thread to me.

So you are saying that brace bar that runs accross the very back of the boot comes standard on all S15s and I can find one by looking for S15 wrecks and it will fit a ECR33 chassis?

Edited by sonicz

Sorry I missed this. Its probably the most relevant post in this thread to me.

So you are saying that brace bar that runs accross the very back of the boot comes standard on all S15s and I can find one by looking for S15 wrecks and it will fit a ECR33 chassis?

Yes

http://www.r33gt-r.com/2013/07/trunk-bar-another-noticeable.html

About fitting the ECR33, just look in your boot to see if there's any predrill holes, according to the blog, there is predrilled holes on r33 gtr series3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...