Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm a red P-plater going for my green's in May, and recently I have been looking for a Nissan Skyline R34. Now I have found a few good ones, one going for $14,500, another that is going for $12,500 and another which is going for $11,000 but the thing is I don't know if I should wait it out and go for the GTR when I have my fulls in a few years, of course saved up some more money and so on.

Also I'm about to start my Uni course and currently working casually whilst driving a Toyota Camry Altise 2010 model. Besides Isn't the insurance pretty high for these cars?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/
Share on other sites

Stick with the Camry

Wait 5 to 10yrs if you want an R34 GTR that badly.

The initial Price, maintenance and insurance I don't think you will be able to afford one until full-time employed for a few years.

and you should be able to get an R34GT for around $8k.

Stick with the Camry !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7207438
Share on other sites

I don't know what you're really trying to develop in your driving satisfaction.

Why not do an Advanced Driving Course #1 in your FWD Camry?

Then do #2 in a RWD whether it be yours or on loan.

Then #3 in a WRX EVO GTR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7207684
Share on other sites

I'm a red P-plater going for my green's in May, and recently I have been looking for a Nissan Skyline R34. Now I have found a few good ones, one going for $14,500, another that is going for $12,500 and another which is going for $11,000 but the thing is I don't know if I should wait it out and go for the GTR when I have my fulls in a few years, of course saved up some more money and so on.

Also I'm about to start my Uni course and currently working casually whilst driving a Toyota Camry Altise 2010 model. Besides Isn't the insurance pretty high for these cars?

To put simply. you can't afford it.

I've never met someone fresh out of Uni that earns enough money to maintain their lifestyle (including rent, food, clothing, bills, clubbing, socialising etc etc) and still afford an R34 GTR (even if you manage to save that amount over the next 3 years)

The average wage out of Uni is around 40-50K a year. That's the price of the GTR just to purchase!!

Unless you are an ace laywer or stock broker straight out of study (or are using mummy and daddy's money), stick with the Camry and buy an R34 GTT, mod it with around 220rwkw and have some fun going to track days etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7207705
Share on other sites

settle down after uni, get a job etc and eventually buy the GTR.

That's a 5-year plan. Save as much as you can until you graduate. Then work your way up from a turbo to a GT-R. By that time, you'll probably start looking at property so priorities will change. GLHF

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7207895
Share on other sites

Buy a shitter (or stick with kelvinator) and spend the rest on piss and partying. f**k saving while at uni. You're only young once, have fun and spend up while doing so. You'll have plenty of time to poor everything you earn into bills and debts and shit after uni. For now just enjoy your youth while you still have it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7207970
Share on other sites

^ +1 100% agree. Get out there, party hard & bang everything you can while your young (I know I would if I could turn back the clock)!

Worry about the GTR when you settle right down or 100% financially stable. You'll have more fun with it then!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7208037
Share on other sites

Buy a Silvia....

You will learn a lot about driving it being a RWD car. They are fairly zippy for a p plater car, cheap to run and are easy to modify.

Then you will be well prepared to make your transition to a GTR, or if you prefer, a turbo Silvia.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7211008
Share on other sites

Lol at the silvia

As others have hinted, keep the camry, party at Uni, then start saving like crazy when you get a job.

Once you have saved enough to buy a GTR for cash, use the money to buy property instead. If you're still wanting the driving fix, get a cheap track car and fang the crap out of it at track days, autocrosses etc. Nothing you do on the streets can compare to all out racing / rallying. Don't waste big $$ on a high performance street car when you can't access more than 20% of its performance on the road. Even a cheap / moderately powered track car (Silvia, MX5, Civic etc) will put a much bigger smile on your dial than accelerating to 60 in 2 seconds from traffic lights in your mega dollar street cruiser.

If you manage to sort out your finances and can afford to drop big $$ onto a street car, by all means do so, but don't make that a high priority.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7211258
Share on other sites

Too much logic in this thread.

Sell your Camry and buy an R31. They cost $500-$2,000, parts can be had for $free - $100. Cheap to insure, torquey 3L engine, convert to manual if auto for $500, women love them. Lots of learning so you save money in the long run. Once you're off your P's, VL turbo kit, easy peasy :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7211307
Share on other sites

niZmO_Man and warps are on the money, Combine the two and you get R31 track car. Cheap, fun, fast enough.

On a more serious and grown up note, dont spend your uni days partying and boozing up. Once you start failing units and end up incurring a bigger HECS debt than you planned, then your GTR and other plans will be pushed back. Get an R31 for track and keep the camry as a daily,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7211420
Share on other sites

If you get a highish maintenance car, you'll spend more time working and less time studying, not what you want. Unless you're rich/have cashed up parents giving you money, you'll have a bad time.

If you really want a sports car, there are plenty of N/A options out there, aus delivered ones with lower insurance premiums.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7211818
Share on other sites

I disagree with all of the above. I found my mid-20s to be the best time to afford a sports cars. In your thirties, you may have a family, a mortgage or other commitments and it makes ownership of a decent sports coupe difficult to justify.

I had an FD rx7 as a car for my first job out of Uni. I have never owned a GTR, but I cant imagine it being any more expensive to maintain as long as you get a clean example. Insurance is always going to be expensive but if you shop around it can work out.

I would aim to purchase the best you can afford with the money you have.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7215414
Share on other sites

I disagree with all of the above. I found my mid-20s to be the best time to afford a sports cars. In your thirties, you may have a family, a mortgage or other commitments and it makes ownership of a decent sports coupe difficult to justify.

I had an FD rx7 as a car for my first job out of Uni. I have never owned a GTR, but I cant imagine it being any more expensive to maintain as long as you get a clean example. Insurance is always going to be expensive but if you shop around it can work out.

I would aim to purchase the best you can afford with the money you have.

Well, to provide some contrast, I didn't have the cash to maintain a decent car while I was at uni, so I spend most of it on Hungry Jacks and Passion Pop. I had a fvcking blast doing it, too.

Now I'm in my mid 30s I have my family and the resources to look after them but also to buy some toys such as my Stag and my CBR1000. I also have the means to look after them all properly.

As I get older and my bones start to creak and I find my "free" time split between work and family, I am realising just how true the old adage of "youth is wasted on the young" rings true. I'd love to bounce like I used to now I have the money to drink from the top shelf.

Don't focus your time, money and energy on cars when you're at uni. You can do that later on when you have a shed and the money to do so. Once a wife and/or family comes along, you can kiss goodbye the uni-esque life forever so in the mean time enjoy it while you can.

Oh, and BigWillieStyles, I don't think we're talking about someone in their mid-20s here. I think you'll find it's late teens ie. 18-19. There's a big difference between the life you live at 19 and the life you live at 26. By 26 you've been out of uni for ~5 years and are well established in your career and probably have some money to burn. At 19 you're probably bare-assed broke and wondering if you should spend this weeks pay on rent and food or a big night out at *insert name of club here*. You probably go with the latter, too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439543-gt-or-gtr/#findComment-7215541
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...