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Poorest Rb30S Youve Done. Slappers Etc

joe blo

By joe blo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
Posted

hi guys tell me some stories about the poorest rb30 twin cam conversions youve done or mates have done. like high kms non rebuilt motors and non rebuilt heads and stuff. what power ya made and for how long?

im doin one i think. got rb25 na head for $50 but will need valve springs and getting rb30 motor for $80. last one was ment to be a slapper but got sidetracked and rebuilt motor and head. hopefully stay poor this time

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

It wasn't really a slapper because I did go a forged bottom end....but I did reuse the original stagea head without refreshing and it has about 300,000klm on it now. getting a bit smokey on deceleration but still makes the same power it always did (250awkw)

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

No machining but but cleaned up and new rings, bearings and conrod bolts. Currently on 314AWKW done about 50,000km blows a little smoke but uses very little oil between changes. Worth doing a roughy but if I had the money I would have preferred a rebore with forged high comp pistons and a good balance (rods and crank would be fine as is).

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted
No machining but but cleaned up and new rings, bearings and conrod bolts. Currently on 314AWKW done about 50,000km blows a little smoke but uses very little oil between changes. Worth doing a roughy but if I had the money I would have preferred a rebore with forged high comp pistons and a good balance (rods and crank would be fine as is).

I am putting together my 25/30 at the moment. Will be used for drifting so will see some constant high revving (will set rev limiter to 7000) and I was planning on just tearing the block down and cleaning everything (pistons/ring/rods). Will also be chucking in new ACL bearings all round. Is it worth going ARP main/head studs and rod bolts.

Trying to toss up whether going ARP all round or reuse the standard gear. Any advice for a first timer appreciated :)

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Surely people have seen what Simon_s14 is doing with an untouched bottom end.

400 plus rwkw!

I am running an untouched wrecker bottom end for 295rwkw just got a bigger turbo and water injection so will push it harder.

Also did nothing to the head, aside from weld up vct gallery and run external lime (neo head)

log in Collaborator

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Posted
Posted

I went to put a tomei oil pump on my forged 26/30 to find it hasn't had a collar installed when being built so I'm putting the head on a standard 30 bottom end with t78 and e85 and going to see how far I can push it while I save to get the good bottom end ready to go

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted
Surely people have seen what Simon_s14 is doing with an untouched bottom end.

400 plus rwkw!

I am running an untouched wrecker bottom end for 295rwkw just got a bigger turbo and water injection so will push it harder.

Also did nothing to the head, aside from weld up vct gallery and run external lime (neo head)

I certainly have seen his results mate, it's essentially what I am doing except fresh bearings and when the bottom end grenades I can reuse the studs again.

Also you will be copping a lengthy PM soon, have quite a few questions saved up about the conversion as I too am doing a 25/30 NEO :)

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

the whole reason that mine is so reliable is because i left it alone.

dont f**k with it and it will work.. dont change bearings or rings for a freshen up.. just get a good cond running engine that you know works, pull it out of a 31, put a head on it with quality parts and support systems and it will serve you well

  • Like 1
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

What would be minimum compression result on the comp guage if looking at a running rb30? im guessing over 150psi would be a thumbs up?

Probably have to buy the whole wreck/car unless you are awesome with tools and have a car hoist handy?

Edited by AngryRB
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

its easy as... drop the sump, then undo the large pressure relief valve nut, inside is a spring and a ball bearing. leave them there, then get 2xm6 flat washers (i used spring washers and then bent them in vice to become flat) and place 2 of them on top of the spring and then refit the cap. reseal the sump.

should get an extra 20psi out of it.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Cos you seem nice heres a pic.

The thing to undo is the gold coloured plug in the bottom left of the photo.

You can see the bolts that hold the sump on near it along the bottom of the pump,so should be clearer for you.

Also shows you can't take the oil pump off without removing the sump.post-107339-0-05878100-1395038977_thumb.jpg

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

I'm prettysure You can't take the sump off with the engine in the car.

The oil pimp stays on. When you take the sump of you will see the plug Simon is referring to.

Yeah sorry, i mean to say on the engine not in the car, it definitely cannot be done in car as you can't take the sump off at all.

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