Poorest Rb30S Youve Done. Slappers Etc

[joe blo]

hi guys tell me some stories about the poorest rb30 twin cam conversions youve done or mates have done. like high kms non rebuilt motors and non rebuilt heads and stuff. what power ya made and for how long?

im doin one i think. got rb25 na head for $50 but will need valve springs and getting rb30 motor for $80. last one was ment to be a slapper but got sidetracked and rebuilt motor and head. hopefully stay poor this time

[Duncan]

It wasn't really a slapper because I did go a forged bottom end....but I did reuse the original stagea head without refreshing and it has about 300,000klm on it now. getting a bit smokey on deceleration but still makes the same power it always did (250awkw)

[KiwiRS4T]

No machining but but cleaned up and new rings, bearings and conrod bolts. Currently on 314AWKW done about 50,000km blows a little smoke but uses very little oil between changes. Worth doing a roughy but if I had the money I would have preferred a rebore with forged high comp pistons and a good balance (rods and crank would be fine as is).

[joe blo]

good job guys.

my $80 motor didnt turn out too good. had a blown headgasket the guy didnt tell me about and is already 1mm oversize

if anyone has a motor around brisbane let me know and il buy it off ya. rb30

[iruvyouskyrine]

No machining but but cleaned up and new rings, bearings and conrod bolts. Currently on 314AWKW done about 50,000km blows a little smoke but uses very little oil between changes. Worth doing a roughy but if I had the money I would have preferred a rebore with forged high comp pistons and a good balance (rods and crank would be fine as is).

I am putting together my 25/30 at the moment. Will be used for drifting so will see some constant high revving (will set rev limiter to 7000) and I was planning on just tearing the block down and cleaning everything (pistons/ring/rods). Will also be chucking in new ACL bearings all round. Is it worth going ARP main/head studs and rod bolts.

Trying to toss up whether going ARP all round or reuse the standard gear. Any advice for a first timer appreciated

[Ben C34]

Surely people have seen what Simon_s14 is doing with an untouched bottom end.

400 plus rwkw!

I am running an untouched wrecker bottom end for 295rwkw just got a bigger turbo and water injection so will push it harder.

Also did nothing to the head, aside from weld up vct gallery and run external lime (neo head)

[log in]

I went to put a tomei oil pump on my forged 26/30 to find it hasn't had a collar installed when being built so I'm putting the head on a standard 30 bottom end with t78 and e85 and going to see how far I can push it while I save to get the good bottom end ready to go

[iruvyouskyrine]

Surely people have seen what Simon_s14 is doing with an untouched bottom end.

400 plus rwkw!

I am running an untouched wrecker bottom end for 295rwkw just got a bigger turbo and water injection so will push it harder.

Also did nothing to the head, aside from weld up vct gallery and run external lime (neo head)

I certainly have seen his results mate, it's essentially what I am doing except fresh bearings and when the bottom end grenades I can reuse the studs again.

Also you will be copping a lengthy PM soon, have quite a few questions saved up about the conversion as I too am doing a 25/30 NEO

[joe blo]

well im gunna be a 2 litre man for now. bought a car instead of building a motor for a car i dont have

[ARTZ]

I expected more from this thread...i am dissapoint

[Simon-S14]

the whole reason that mine is so reliable is because i left it alone.

dont f**k with it and it will work.. dont change bearings or rings for a freshen up.. just get a good cond running engine that you know works, pull it out of a 31, put a head on it with quality parts and support systems and it will serve you well

[AngryRB]

What would be minimum compression result on the comp guage if looking at a running rb30? im guessing over 150psi would be a thumbs up?

Probably have to buy the whole wreck/car unless you are awesome with tools and have a car hoist handy?

Edited March 16, 2014 by AngryRB

[Simon-S14]

Yeah something around 150.

Even mine now with 26 head and near 2 years of thrashing makes over 150psi on all 6

[iruvyouskyrine]

How hard was shimming the oil pump simon? Any chance if a quick run though on how to do it and what sort of oil pressure can I expect with the shims in?

[Simon-S14]

its easy as... drop the sump, then undo the large pressure relief valve nut, inside is a spring and a ball bearing. leave them there, then get 2xm6 flat washers (i used spring washers and then bent them in vice to become flat) and place 2 of them on top of the spring and then refit the cap. reseal the sump.

should get an extra 20psi out of it.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Might sound like a stupid question but I honestly have no idea. Is this all done with the oil pump on the car still? I thought it would have to be taken off.

[Ben C34]

I'm prettysure You can't take the sump off with the engine in the car.

The oil pimp stays on. When you take the sump of you will see the plug Simon is referring to.

[Ben C34]

Cos you seem nice heres a pic.

The thing to undo is the gold coloured plug in the bottom left of the photo.

You can see the bolts that hold the sump on near it along the bottom of the pump,so should be clearer for you.

Also shows you can't take the oil pump off without removing the sump.

[iruvyouskyrine]

I'm prettysure You can't take the sump off with the engine in the car.

The oil pimp stays on. When you take the sump of you will see the plug Simon is referring to.

Yeah sorry, i mean to say on the engine not in the car, it definitely cannot be done in car as you can't take the sump off at all.

[Simon-S14]

sure you can... its just a lot harder haha.

not worth it unless taking motor out tho