Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes I do ALL of the work on my car . Amongst other things I wired up the ls coils, put the rb30 bottom end in, do all tuning and recently put some type b cams in. Not that that is particularly relevant.

You are guessing as to how much the power band will shift. Typically better cams will have more lift which will create more flow all over and therfore increase power in all parts of the Rev range, making the shift to the right not as bad as you would imagine.

Have you put in cams? Not that I care.

This is correct, a more aggressive ramp rate on the lobe will do this, depends on motor to motor though, some you can have your cake and eat it to

cheers

'darren

Well, From my understanding, the main advantage of a good ebc is the ability to "tune" the ebc to make the boost do what you want, i.e hold flat to redline, and how it ramps onto boost.

If your looking to get everything you can out of your setup I'd think it would be an advantage.

But back to your original post, are you unhappy with how the car goes? or do you just want it to make a number? cause the power figures your talking about, I dont see much variance in them, and they're also over two different tuners and two different dyno's.

Plus your saying the car feels better now, so whats the issue?

More boost will make a restricted system worse, if the rear housing or manifold is restricting the system more boost will dramatically increase manifold/back pressure coursing detonation

Get an EBC, they are better all round and will hold the wastegate shut longer by not allowing it to creep open which will make it ramp onto boost quicker and you can try different boost levels to better see what's going on

We tried 22psi on my 32 but didn't gain any more power but had to remove timing, 19psi is the sweet spot for my setup, you need to find yours

Same thing with my 34, we couldn't run more then 28psi for the same reason, the twin .64 on a 3ltr don't like that much flow

I'm already at the limit of my boost level of 22psi on 98 fuel so not looking for more boost. But that boost is dropping down to a max of 4psi after 4500rpms onwards, so am looking to hold it up as far as possible and bring it on harder/make a few more kws and quicker car.

I never really understood the point of installing a turbo that is suppose to be efficient at higher pressure ratios, then jamming into restrictive housings and stock exhaust manifolds. On 98ron its the perfect combination for a mediocre result....

Sounds like the setup is much better suited to a hypergear turbo.

Just my 2c

rondofj- at the risk of stating the obvious, are you still using a 0.63? maybe I missed something but if so then isn't that the limit of the housing? I must of missed something lol.. flame on!! haha

Yeh mate, 0.63 like Kurtis did on his neo- 372kw from that on e85 and high mount mani. If you take 15% off that to get a rough estimate on 98 you get 316kw which is roundabouts what I should be making yeah? 316kw and 280kw is a big difference, even if mine is low mount

Yep you can't just say should be around 316kw

There are a lot of variable between yours and his setup

Yours is on the std manifold his has a high mount tubular manifold

Was his tuned on the same dyno as you I don't think so

His can handle more boost than your cause the e85

Engine cond can't be the same

Intake will less restrictive on his as it's highmount less bend and so on

There's your 20-30kw differences there

Either way your are very close to the limits of the .63 rear housing and your engine will be a lot happier with a .82 rear especially on pump 98

Yes it will be alil Doughier maybe 2-300rpm laggier but it's worth the piece of mind especially on pump 98 and at those boost and power levels

You can't have the best of both worlds or deal with it being restricted and less power but more responsive

Whether its a $100 exhaust or a $2000 branded shiny one, flow is all that matters and mines sorted flow wise so that makes no sense. Stock mani 'could be a possible restriction. 0.63 housing- Im not sure how different this is to the garrett version. And 15% less kw on 98 than e85 'generally goin by info on many forums.. In either case i should theoretically be at least over 300..

Stop being a dyno queen dude and just be happy. You came here because of a restriction, you got that sorted and you said the car was driving better than ever. So why is this still going chasing the 300 that you believe you have been robbed?

People have already told you the variables and the biggest one is the dyno. It gets said time and time again that you can't compare results on different dynos. So either go chuck your car on their dyno or just be happy that your car is in the range of what's expected

whats the difference between a garrett 0.63 and a precision 0.63? if there isn't much then 280 is going well, if the restriction in exhaust is solved then surely the housing is the next thing to change.

In your first post you state you lost power going from 20 to 23 psi and you made 270kw at 20psi with very retarded timing, so if you lost power going from 20 to 23psi then I wonder if you lost power going from 18 to 20psi and having to retard the timing at 20psi

Get it back to 18psi and see if that allows them to run more timing and see if it gains you any more power

E85 benifits knock limited engine a lot more then ones that aren't, there certainly isn't a rule of thumb on gains from converting to E85, some motors might pick 5% where other may gain 40% really depends on how the motor is setup and if its limited by knock, I'd say your motor will pick up a heap from going E85 cause it sounds like it is very knock restricted

  • Like 1

I found a VW forum where a guy has a few similarities to your setup, he mentions that the seimens fuel injectors are a bit unreliable, he is using 35psi and only getting 420ish hp and high reading dyno,

maybe your turbo is just at its limits and the fuel injectors are shithouse, if they partially sieze up or the spray was rubbish, that might be restricting the tune. This guys AFR is up and down.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6149918-5558-Dyno-Results-and-what-I-ve-learned&p=83227622#post83227622

I vote for 0.82 rear and some 1000cc ID's

Edited by AngryRB
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...