Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Changing my OS Giken Quad to something a bit more forgiving as a DD.

The car is 338 AWKW and I do not expect to take it past 370 AWKW with the work I am having done soon , the quad is over kill for this HP.

Been looking at 2 types, Nismo C-spec twin copper mix and ATS Pro-Spec single , Carbon on carbon type, I think this is the model?

Any feedback or suggestions welcome before I have to confirm the work .

Nismo c spec.

Been in my car for 9 years, 40,000 kms, over 300 launches currently holding 472 rwkw. Good enough to fark up an OS GIKEN 5 speed. Lovely to drive.

Ordered yet? Lol

Fixed, :D

I have Exedy twin in my 32 which runs 11.1, has been there for 8 years of massive abuse and still going

Nismo twin was an Exedy twin

plenty of great clutches to get you there and hold for a long time.

Im currently running a OS giken TCS2B twin plate.. has the cool rattly twin plate sound, is ever so slightly heavier than the nismo twin pedal wise but thats because the nismo twin is too light for my tastes

Im also a big fan of the ATS carbon twin/triple plate as they both have a great pedal feel and progressive bite for daily duties.

These are both Puk style clutches where piggies Nismo is a full face organic disc.

Hope someone can understand my next question

I am changing my turbo from a T78 to a PT6262 and installing Poncams Bs, I wanted more power down low as it is a DD, the mechanic said it will spool much earlier and I will have a bit more torque down low.

I only have a problem on steep hill starts at times if I do not get it right , if ride it a little with the revs around 3k it is OK BUT not much room for error. Will this extra torque and earlier power from the new set up stop that lag when the clutch engages, even when ridding it, it lags.

Not sure if LAG is the right way to explain it, it feels like the revs die even if you are still trying to build them as the clutch engages?

I have not ordered anything yet but only have a short time before getting the other work done and have to make my mind up very soon.

Seems the C-Spec and the ATS carbon are both good choices and cannot go too far wrong with either of them.

Thanks for your collective help every time I need it :yes:

  • 1 month later...

post-52098-0-40385000-1399074197_thumb.jpgpost-52098-0-05167500-1399074491_thumb.jpg

plenty of great clutches to get you there and hold for a long time.

Im currently running a OS giken TCS2B twin plate.. has the cool rattly twin plate sound, is ever so slightly heavier than the nismo twin pedal wise but thats because the nismo twin is too light for my tastes

Im also a big fan of the ATS carbon twin/triple plate as they both have a great pedal feel and progressive bite for daily duties.

These are both Puk style clutches where piggies Nismo is a full face organic disc.

Hi Dave

Had the Turbo and Cams changed and the car ran great, the clutch was soooo much easier with a bit more low down power, a different car , you could feel it working like a car should not a heap of crap.

The brown is the new tune :yes:

I was really happy for 300Klms and lost the bloody tune :angry:

So have to start all over again, going to change the ECU , maybe Haltech or MoTech , do you know anything about them or recommend another brand for me to look into? :action-smiley-069:

Motec is over kill on a street car and costs a fortune to unlock every single option on them

Haltec will do everything you want and so will a few others, link is a good choice for the fact it goes into the original ecu case and looks factory

As long as they don't lock the ecu (password it) then as long as you have the correct software then you can't save it to your laptop

So if they do not lock it up with a password I can use the tune or whatever is put into the ECU?

Then you say if I have the correct password I CANNOT save it to my laptop, was this a TYPO ?

As I said, I am learning :)

Nismo c spec.

Been in my car for 9 years, 40,000 kms, over 300 launches currently holding 472 rwkw. Good enough to just an OS GIKEN 5 speed. Lovely to drive.

Ordered yet? Lol

Just drove back from Sydney after the mods and with some power down low it is easy to drive, I will see if I can post the new Dyno Tune

post-134126-0-55718000-1399183264_thumb.jpg

post-134126-0-88231800-1399183349_thumb.jpg

Yes sorry I meant to say you can save the tune to your laptop

I knew what you meant, I think I will get a cheap laptop to do only car stuff and not use it on the Internet as there are too many things that can stuff your computer up if you use the Internet, well I think so?

Afraid of the Internet? But on the Internet now! ;)

Not afraid of the Internet, just what it can let through to my computer and take a safer option , keep stuff that does not need the Internet away from it. :yes:

I have a seperate laptop for interweb banking and car tuning and another one for everything else, cause doesn't trust anything :D

Good thinking , I was going to use my laptop just for this but had to do a couple of OS trips and started using it for everything, now I cannot even log on to this Forum with my laptop (using PC now)and had to re register under a different name T R NISMO1 , so unless I have the shop clean it out I will get something else for banking and private info without going on other websites , paranoid , you bet :)

I clean 30 to 60 spams from my mailwasher every day, put them on my blacklist and spam list but they come again and again and it is bloody annoying :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...