Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just after opinions on a 25/30 using a neo head vs a 26/30 setup. I'm aware of the smaller combustion chambers on the neo head needing different pistons etc.

It's going into a VL so either way I need to change a lot of things. I have got a neo head on the way... But wondering if I should go to a 26/30. Chasing around 450-500hp for now on 98ron, and run into the 9s eventually.

Don't want to build a 30neo and later down the track regret not using a 26 head.

So just wondering, which is the better choice. Sorry if its been covered before.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Can you run the 26 style under buckets in a NEO head?

one was a stock head stock cams and the other was poncams type b's but stock everything else.

and no the buckets are different sizes, the 26 head was made with sustained rpm in mind

So that is a no to running 26 cams in a neo head? I'm finding it hard to get upgrade options on neo cams, other than tomei poncams. And with the VCT, isn't there a limit on the lift/duration they could possibly run?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290646
Share on other sites

So that is a no to running 26 cams in a neo head? I'm finding it hard to get upgrade options on neo cams, other than tomei poncams. And with the VCT, isn't there a limit on the lift/duration they could possibly run?

What sort of cam are you looking for?

Surely you don't want huge duration and lose vct?

I would have thought the type b tomei cams are sweet for most people.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290653
Share on other sites

What sort of cam are you looking for?

Surely you don't want huge duration and lose vct?

I would have thought the type b tomei cams are sweet for most people.

Well I wanted to sacrifice a little low end power for wank factor of overlapping on idle. My mate has the HKS step 2's on his gtr (272's, 10.5 or something) and the idle is just magnificent and lumpy.

It's hard to choose between right cams for the turbo/engine, or the sound of a lumpy idle. I understand I will get a new hole torn for saying it, but IMO a nice idle makes a car have more presence. Obviously if it makes low rpm a pig, I would rather go for drive ability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290664
Share on other sites

Well I wanted to sacrifice a little low end power for wank factor of overlapping on idle. My mate has the HKS step 2's on his gtr (272's, 10.5 or something) and the idle is just magnificent and lumpy.

It's hard to choose between right cams for the turbo/engine, or the sound of a lumpy idle. I understand I will get a new hole torn for saying it, but IMO a nice idle makes a car have more presence. Obviously if it makes low rpm a pig, I would rather go for drive ability.

I really struggle with that logic.

If it idles shit of course it will be a pig down low . That's why it idles bad.

That has to be the silliest reason to get cams.

If all you want is a wanky idle do it with tuning. Run it lean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290667
Share on other sites

I really struggle with that logic.

If it idles shit of course it will be a pig down low . That's why it idles bad.

That has to be the silliest reason to get cams.

If all you want is a wanky idle do it with tuning. Run it lean.

Obviously I want cams to make the most of what the engine has to offer, but I thought if I could get a lumpy idle it would be nice as well.

I am not familiar with tuning, and I wasn't aware leaning it out would cause a lumpy idle.

I worded what I wanted to say really poorly in the previous post. I am still trying to learn, sorry if I sound like a tool.

Edited by sleptema
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290691
Share on other sites

I have 250 poncams in a 26/30 and it has quite a nice tough lumpiness to the idle but low end power is just awesome and it drive hard from about 2200rpm, below that and the gearbox starts to labour

IMO the right cams and turbo configuration setup right and the 26 head wins, that said the worlds fastest toughest RBs run 25 neo heads yeah!! Oh wait no they don't :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290712
Share on other sites

XKLABA have you got any videos of your car? Have been keeping an eye on what you post and now it's running i want to see it!

I would also like a slightly angry/lumpy idle but i don't think standard neo cams are going to give me that haha. Are you really able to tune it for a lumpy idle and have no engine health side effects?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290741
Share on other sites

Josh, are you in Sydney? Ifso I'm going to try and get out to the next Texi for a looksee and will be taking the 34 out come down and I'll take you fora run :)

My car wasn't tuned to be lumpy it just happened that way :/ , but yeah you can quite safely tune for a lumpy idle, cam timing can also make it lumpy, when I first bought the car it was setup with 260 poncams and was lumpier the a bridge port 13b I pulled up next to :( not my thing would rather a nice calm idle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290830
Share on other sites

Josh, are you in Sydney? Ifso I'm going to try and get out to the next Texi for a looksee and will be taking the 34 out come down and I'll take you fora run :)

My car wasn't tuned to be lumpy it just happened that way :/ , but yeah you can quite safely tune for a lumpy idle, cam timing can also make it lumpy, when I first bought the car it was setup with 260 poncams and was lumpier the a bridge port 13b I pulled up next to :( not my thing would rather a nice calm idle

In Newcastle but will come down to the next texi for a squizz. When/where is it?

I still don't think that the standard 236/232 NEO cams will get anything close haha!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441767-2530-neo-v-2630/#findComment-7290992
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...