Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some or all of you may know that Whiteline discontinued their spring lines some time ago, pretty much leaving Kings as one of the very few alternatives for the non-coilover set.

I've just found out that the springmakers that used to supply Whiteline with some of their springs (at least for the grey import market like our cars) are still able to make all the springs that they used to. Company by the name of Dobinsons, located up in Rockhampton. They don't list the Skyline stuff on their site, but according to my mechanic they still make them.

have you tried the King springs? i had them on my ST185 and they were rubbish, but they had made the same spring for ST184 and just listed it as applicable for both models (one is n/a fwd, other is turbo awd). When I used the King low springs on my R33, i was pleasantly surprised....

Yeah, I have Kings Springs in my car now. But I have recently gotten some new Bilsteins from SK. Those dampers are set up for the Whiteline springs, now sadly discontinued. SK says that the R32&3 Kings Springs are almost exact duplicates of the Whiteline design. But that doesn't hep me with the Kings that I have in the car now. When I put the current suspension into the car, which was about 14 years ago, Kings didn't actually make springs for R32 GTSts. Only for GTRs and for S13s. So I ended up with a mishmash of GTR fronts on GTR dampers and S13 rears on R32 dampers. They worked, but they've never been awesome. Worse, as far as I can tell, they don't match the new dampers I've bought. So, we were going to buy Kings Springs, but a little research showed that the Whiteline designs are still available from the original manufacturer. Possible win.

Edited by GTSBoy

Eibach springs...

KMAC...

leaving Kings as one of the very few alternatives

Yuh, aware of those. This is more about providing info for peeps who might want the springs that belong with SK's Bilsteins. Either KMAC or Eibach might suit the dampers equally well, but we do KNOW that the Whiteline ones did/do.

*edited*

I suppose my 1am post was pretty shit.

It's good to know that someone out there has the specs for the springs. If you knew the specs of the Whiteline springs, you could alternatively get your own ones made up with similar specs.

For Sydney siders, K-MAC is ideal as they can pick up the springs from them in Rockdale.

I thought SK's kit used King springs.

SK's kit used Whiteline springs.

FWIW...These were about 1" lower than standard and for my car left the eyebrow height sitting at about 330mm F, 340mm R at the standard cir clip height. I soon raised the cir clips to the highest (current) setting which gave me 345mm F (drivers), 350 F(passenger) and 350 R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...