Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 6258 is more suited to a 2ltr or smaller. I have a 6758 on my 2ltr Wrx and you wouldn't want anymore response. We have a 6758 .8A/R on a c34 Neo Stagea making 20psi by 2500rpm.

Excuse my ignorance and lack of knowledge. Would that mean running out of high end puff but having everything down low? I only ask as ive asked a highflow service provider if i can get bucket of low down torque and power to suit my driving style in tight and twisty roads not interested in long straights and high kw. And well said service provider sent me to a factory replacement turbo running same boost and comes on at around same time... sorry for long winded question hope you can pick it out i think ive even lost it in there somewhere

You will certainly have response with the 6258...the starter motor will bring it on boost. You will have positive pressure from idle. It's Still no slouch. Have seen a time attack car win several events with the 6258. Only problem is you make risk over spinning the turbine up top to keep the flow from dropping off...which causes other things to drop off ;-)

post-49288-14532960037082_thumb.jpg

post-49288-14532960339919_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

Cheers for the info mate. Well that puts a downer in my plans.

It will still be awesome, will just be limited to 20-25 psi up top due to the pumping capacity of the 2.5. If you're get onto Borg Warner match bot. It will plot your wheel speed. Check the speed limit on the associated flow chart.

Here you go, I've done it for you. As you can see the little 6258 will over speed ifthe boost is kept up at high rpm. Drops off even more than I thought. These turbos are good for the 2.5 ltr Wrx Sti that only rev to 5500rpm. You would definitely need the .85a/r turbine housing. Check out the boost pressure level in the table.

20psi dropping off (reliable turbo)

post-49288-14533387007546_thumb.jpg

post-49288-14533387169117_thumb.jpg

post-49288-14533390765804_thumb.jpg

20psi holding, .85a/r (over speed)

post-49288-14533387278588_thumb.jpg

post-49288-14533387388897_thumb.jpg

post-49288-14533387488115_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

Anywhere else such as where the airbox sits is going to limit the dump flow, I would mount it in the stock location, perhaps slightly tilted up at the front to help straighten the piping a little. Shame we can't swap the starter to the other side like the VQ30det.

If the compressor housing is much larger than a GT30 TO4E? I think you will struggle in the stock location, mine only just fit. Apparently there is a GT35 in one somewhere, but damn it must be tight. You would want at least 10-15mm clearance from the chassis rail unless you want to run solid engine mounts.

Anywhere else such as where the airbox sits is going to limit the dump flow, I would mount it in the stock location, perhaps slightly tilted up at the front to help straighten the piping a little. Shame we can't swap the starter to the other side like the VQ30det.

If the compressor housing is much larger than a GT30 TO4E? I think you will struggle in the stock location, mine only just fit. Apparently there is a GT35 in one somewhere, but damn it must be tight. You would want at least 10-15mm clearance from the chassis rail unless you want to run solid engine mounts.

limit the dump flow?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...