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Currently running 16.8 degrees timing in 3rd gear. I increased timing by 5 degrees this morning and it was considerably quicker. Smoking all 4 tyres on accel.

My concern is however the timing is gear specific as controlled by the OEM ECU. Increasing the timing that suits 3rd will cause huge timing figures in the lower gears...possibly explaining why Tao's M35 exploded in 2nd gear at part throttle.

There is a speed vs fuel map in the EMU however no speed vs timing. I might look at translating speed to a 0-5v signal to utilize the temp vs timing map in the EMU since the OEM ECU handles that anyway.

There is no question we have more power to be extracted. I just want to be smart about how it is controlled.

post-49288-14635261522212_thumb.jpg

What's 1300lb torque in NM? I tried an online conversion tool and it gave me the result of 1700NM!

I have no idea what formula you used.. but I'm going out on a limb to say its incorrect. TE = T*R*1000/r I dont know the gear ratios, diff ratios, or rolling radius of Matts tyres so it'd all be a stab in the dark.

Dyno sheets are just a tuning tool, I'm looking forward to it having a run at AIR and seeing what numbers it can put down!

Agreed it's a weird figure that's at the rear wheels. Makes no sense and is definitely not 1700nm and a reference-able figure. Good for highlighting the torque curve only. It's certainly making decent torque. I just need to connect the rpm trigger on the dyno next time to get a normal type of output. Will do this when I get around to actually tuning the timing. Only running 16.9 degrees ATM.

Keen for AIR also. Need to fix the damage from it coming off the dyno first.

post-49288-14636166512436_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

I have no idea what formula you used.. but I'm going out on a limb to say its incorrect. TE = T*R*1000/r I dont know the gear ratios, diff ratios, or rolling radius of Matts tyres so it'd all be a stab in the dark.

Dyno sheets are just a tuning tool, I'm looking forward to it having a run at AIR and seeing what numbers it can put down!

I realized its a tuning tool, it was out of curiosity to see what the VQ makes vs the B5 Audi S4 2.7ltr twin turbo.

Torque figures on roller dynos are usually pretty inaccurate from a numerical perspective (perhaps they can be accurate with correct information input). my pulsar has made anything from 600 to 1000NM's lol

Yea you need the info that Dunc mentioned above to accurately work out the torque. I think what is displayed on the dyno is tractive effort or some crap which then needs to be converted using the ratios etc as Dunc mentioned

  • 2 weeks later...

Are there options for me if i simply want to upgrade core to one with a steel turbine rather than ceramic ? I have not seen it pop up at all and it is an upgrade in terms of material used

like a hi-flow?

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=79&search=m35

I'm not aware of a direct fit steel wheel replacement. Of note. If you fitted a direct fit steel turbine you would go backwards in terms of torque(low end response) there are small high flows available now which respond very similar to stock.

I'm not aware of a direct fit steel wheel replacement. Of note. If you fitted a direct fit steel turbine you would go backwards in terms of torque(low end response) there are small high flows available now which respond very similar to stock.

What are their wheels made of? Are they just a Garrett core with our housings or something else?

I think that's what stripey wanted, just a basic high flow that will respond similarly to stock but without the concern of the ceramic wheel.

Yes you can get a Garrett core replacement. Original replacement with the ceramic turbine has steel ball bearings and the newer Garrett cores are Ceramic Ball bearing with inconel turbines. As long as the rebuilt unit is ball bearing or CBB you will claw back some of the benefits of the ceramic turbine.

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