Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does Vipec still make the plugin for R32/R33/R34? I spoke to my local tuner and he said that Vipec have discontinued the plugins (still make them for BMW, Volkswagen etc) and they are now branded as Link G4+.

Somewhat related to the discussion above is that I believe the Link G4+ now has OBD2 interface which means you should be able to sync it with apps such as "Torque Pro" to get yourself a pretty cool readout if used in conjunction with an Android tablet or similar.

has anyone done this??

seems ideal!

best ive seen for the Link G4+ plug n play is $2099

question is, do you actually need all the features that a Link G4 OR ViPec OR Haltech has to offer?

something like a cheapie Adaptronic Select would do the trick for most of your needs.

This is 2014 not 1860 - they have airplanes now - you could have it in 3 - 5 days!!!

Haha i meant more like, i dont like sending cash to people i dont know or non-companies. At least if i do it in Aus someone knows someone and i can chase the cash.

question is, do you actually need all the features that a Link G4 OR ViPec OR Haltech has to offer?

something like a cheapie Adaptronic Select would do the trick for most of your needs.

Honestly im not technically minded. i just sat down and talked over my plans with the track car and the other parts and goals i had and that is what they suggested / recommended. and they dont sell parts so its not recommended to get a commission or anything

If you're just running E85 all day, making 350kW for the track.. a cheapy Adaptronic would fit the bill...

Does everything from closed loop ignition (retard timing on knock) to full closed loop fuel correction using a wideband O2.. even has support for flex sensors/launch control/anti lag

Not to mention it's local/cheap/good support.. just the software looks ugly as my butt but if you know what you're doing it's a piece of piss :)

If you're just running E85 all day, making 350kW for the track.. a cheapy Adaptronic would fit the bill...

Does everything from closed loop ignition (retard timing on knock) to full closed loop fuel correction using a wideband O2.. even has support for flex sensors/launch control/anti lag

Not to mention it's local/cheap/good support.. just the software looks ugly as my butt but if you know what you're doing it's a piece of piss :)

Yer E85 is the go and around 400kws...

Interesting. Thanks for that.

Ill give the tuner a buzz and see what he thinks. or if there are any reasons for/ against tec

I'll list out a few cons however I still use it because of the value.

  • software is ugly, doesn't scale properly on a standard non full HD screen
  • doesn't have AFR/knock/injection duty/etc overlays vs. load points
  • USB port is flimsy, I snapped mine off had to resolder it back on
  • not full sequential, on a 6 cylinder it runs as semi sequential injections/semi batch firing (pairing 2 at a time)
  • once in a while it decides to write erroneous values to your ignition table
  • base maps are horrible, you really need to spend time on it to get it to idle, drive normally

however, once you sort out those small idiosyncrasies it works like any other ECU and the support is from the man himself unlike bigger brands they would just brush you off. Andy replies to e-mails at any hour of the day and weekends when he has the chance.. so thumbs up there!

I'll list out a few cons however I still use it because of the value.

  • software is ugly, doesn't scale properly on a standard non full HD screen
  • doesn't have AFR/knock/injection duty/etc overlays vs. load points
  • USB port is flimsy, I snapped mine off had to resolder it back on
  • not full sequential, on a 6 cylinder it runs as semi sequential injections/semi batch firing (pairing 2 at a time)
  • once in a while it decides to write erroneous values to your ignition table
  • base maps are horrible, you really need to spend time on it to get it to idle, drive normally

however, once you sort out those small idiosyncrasies it works like any other ECU and the support is from the man himself unlike bigger brands they would just brush you off. Andy replies to e-mails at any hour of the day and weekends when he has the chance.. so thumbs up there!

how much is one of these? like whats the saving for the hassle?

If you're not tuning, setting up the car yourself you won't even notice anything from the list above.

I believe they're around $1500 + delivery - but if you go through HyperGear or DVS JEZ they can/will do a better price than RRP.

anyone using the knock digitial interface on vipec?

looking at getting this for my evo 8

keen to hear feedback on those using it

also keen to find a price for the knock interface with a sensor

You mean like this (EFI is an authorised Link Reseller):

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-744795118.htm

Haha i meant more like, i dont like sending cash to people i dont know or non-companies. At least if i do it in Aus someone knows someone and i can chase the cash.

Seriously? :wacko: RIPS is potentially one of the most trusted and respected Skyline related builders/tuners (hardly a non-company) in the world, people have been sending cars there from around the world for near a decade now - and there is nothing but good reputation surrounding them, if there was going to be anything to doubt about them I'd say something would have been said by now. Realistically, it's hard to not get bad stories even if there ISN'T something bad to say... to have the kind of name they have with the level builds and distant customers they have is pretty huge.

anyone using the knock digitial interface on vipec?

looking at getting this for my evo 8

keen to hear feedback on those using it

also keen to find a price for the knock interface with a sensor

My tuner uses the link one I think. Thinks it's great and really good for picking up knock long before you hear it with just your ears. He's used a couple before

Seriously? :wacko: RIPS is potentially one of the most trusted and respected Skyline related builders/tuners (hardly a non-company) in the world, people have been sending cars there from around the world for near a decade now - and there is nothing but good reputation surrounding them, if there was going to be anything to doubt about them I'd say something would have been said by now. Realistically, it's hard to not get bad stories even if there ISN'T something bad to say... to have the kind of name they have with the level builds and distant customers they have is pretty huge.

RIPS? i was refering to the link that was sent to a forum in nz like this one of just a person selling a second hand unit.

RIPS? i was refering to the link that was sent to a forum in nz like this one of just a person selling a second hand unit.

Yep that was Sub boy - a fellow Skylines Downunder member who lives near the Link factory. I would trust him but fair enough if you don't want to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...