Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well im looking at getting a gtr to build into a fun weekender/ track day weapon. Im trying to decide between a r32 and r34... yes yes I know worlds apart but the way I see it, the simplicity and lighter weight of a 32 would make it more suited to modding?

would I be correct?

All opinions wanted.

Yes I want gtr for 2wd/4wd fun ness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443062-r32-gtr-track-weapon/
Share on other sites

I bought a 32 GTR for this exact purpose about 12 months ago and have been having a blast in it. I have taken it to the drags, entered it in motorkhana events, and taken it around circuits on track days and it has been able to handle everything with ease. Then on the weekends or days I'm off work, the wife and I have toured the countryside in it, sometimes 5 and 6 hour stints driving at a time and it has been a pleasure the whole time. In my experience (others may disagree), if there is a part on the car you need fixed/replaced/repaired, it can be quite expensive to get the original bits, but if you're upgrading those bits with aftermarket toys, then it is no more expensive than any other car you modify. The 32's are getting quite old now, so bushes, steering/suspension etc are all starting to get well worn, so they are pretty much a definite expense if you're going to take it to the track etc, but like I said, you'd probably do the same for any other car you want to mod as well.

Good luck with it :)

I bought a 32 GTR for this exact purpose about 10 years ago and have been having a miserable time of it. I have taken it around circuits on track days and it hasnt been able to handle everything with ease. Then on the weekends or days I'm off work it sits in the shed unloved and it has been a pita the whole time. In my experience (others may disagree), if there is a part on the car you need fixed/replaced/repaired (And there will be), it can be impossible to get the original bits which are rubbish anyway, but if you're upgrading those bits with aftermarket toys, then it gets much more expensive than any other car you modify. The 32's are getting quite old now, so bushes, steering/suspension and everything else etc are all starting to get well worn, so they are pretty much a definite expense if you're going to take it to the track etc, but like I said, you'd probably do the same for any other car you want to mod as well.

So, in summary if you want a fun weekend car dont get a GTR. They arent particularly fun to drive. They are expensive to campaign and not particularly robust in a few critical areas. They are now old and finding a good one is alot of work. There are alot of them about which means you will always be outdone by someone with a bazillion horsepower version of the same thing you have. If you modify them sufficiently to work on a track well then they arent any fun on the road.

I would go look for something a little different and cheaper.

  • Like 2

IMHO Both the posts above are correct in regards to the R32 GTR

You can buy one all sorted ($$$$) or you can buy one cheaper and spend heaps sorting it out and being pissed-off a lot.

Maybe an Evo VIII would suit your wants better.

Although if your considering an R34 GTR ($40 to 50k) you could spend around $30k-$40k to get a well sorted R32GTR.

Touche' from what's on the market ATM I cant

If you have one you wouldn't sell.

The cost of building is far more than the price you would be offered or the market will bare.

Too true.

Putting the cost for initial purchase aside. Costs for building a 32/33/34 GTR are pretty much the same seeing as they're all basically the same car.

20k for a not totally screwed 32GTR , 25k for 33 GTR and 40k ish for a not totally screwed 34 GTR base car. I thought about re-shelling into a 34R chassis when I started my build but decided against it. In the grand scheme of things it wasn't much extra $ but I was just being stubborn about fixing the car I had sitting in the garage for 7-8 years.

I've noticed a few built cars being parted out lately instead of being sold outright. Smart move as ppl recover more money that way. Be crazy to sell one all modded but they do show up (although rarely).

I currently have a VZ commodore with a cam so im used to driving something with very little road manors.

1 though a 32 would be better as a base because it would leave more money to mod it to a good spec.

It wouldn't be my daily so if it spends some weeks broken I don't mind. Only issue is parts availability and cost, I see most of these aftermarket sites have a lot of good stuff ex japan. Is that where most people get their stuff?

I think biggest issue is finding an R32 with no rust.

Keep the opinions coming guys.

Just FYI...

Im not talking competitive racing, I mean just boring little track days just for some fun on a circuit

GTRs only I know the S chassis would be good but I want a 6 meaning RB none of that VG stuff

Edited by dkvmatt

I have a gtr and a evo 8, the 8 is prity much better in allways bar relabilaty, the r32 driveline is so much stronger i think, the evo tho is 20yrs newer, so its very good as a daily, and much more moden suspenion and inside its a much nicer place, havent had a chance to take the evo to the track yet, tho all time atack cars are prity much evos so that tells a story? I love my gtr tho every one has told me once i take my evo on the track il be a changed man

I bought a 32 GTR for this exact purpose about 10 years ago and have been having a miserable time of it. I have taken it around circuits on track days and it hasnt been able to handle everything with ease. Then on the weekends or days I'm off work it sits in the shed unloved and it has been a pita the whole time. In my experience (others may disagree), if there is a part on the car you need fixed/replaced/repaired (And there will be), it can be impossible to get the original bits which are rubbish anyway, but if you're upgrading those bits with aftermarket toys, then it gets much more expensive than any other car you modify. The 32's are getting quite old now, so bushes, steering/suspension and everything else etc are all starting to get well worn, so they are pretty much a definite expense if you're going to take it to the track etc, but like I said, you'd probably do the same for any other car you want to mod as well.

So, in summary if you want a fun weekend car dont get a GTR. They arent particularly fun to drive. They are expensive to campaign and not particularly robust in a few critical areas. They are now old and finding a good one is alot of work. There are alot of them about which means you will always be outdone by someone with a bazillion horsepower version of the same thing you have. If you modify them sufficiently to work on a track well then they arent any fun on the road.

I would go look for something a little different and cheaper.

Lol, nice... We have obviously had very different experiences.

  • Like 1

do you know anyone who go to track days? ask for a few passenger laps and speak to them about it.

some people fall in love with 32GTR and its worth the money and time off the road to them. While others just want to get out there regularly, reliably and/or with small, agile cars that are cheaper to run, sometimes more fun and arguably help people with less track experience get a grip on things ;)

Lol, nice... We have obviously had very different experiences.

Yeah well I was probably overstating it a bit but it depends on what the original poster means by "fun". Because you can have fun in just about anything. Conversely if your idea of fun is to generate some good lap times a GTR is not light, nor is it cheap, nor is it simple. But then again neither are most things. The faster you want to go the more expensive, the more complex and the more difficult it gets.

Hell I've been to track days and had a miserable time of it only to bump into someone loving life who is in much the same car, just 5 seconds a lap slower.

At the end of the day car selection isnt a particularly rational. You buy what you love and try and make it work. If it were me and I had the coin I would go the 34. But I would also look at an FD, a Westfield, a hachi roku (New or old, dont care), a GTST and a gutted AU six. All of which can be fun, depending on your outlook.

I currently have a VZ commodore with a cam so im used to driving something with very little road manors.

1 though a 32 would be better as a base because it would leave more money to mod it to a good spec.

It wouldn't be my daily so if it spends some weeks broken I don't mind. Only issue is parts availability and cost, I see most of these aftermarket sites have a lot of good stuff ex japan. Is that where most people get their stuff?

I think biggest issue is finding an R32 with no rust.

Keep the opinions coming guys.

Just FYI...

Im not talking competitive racing, I mean just boring little track days just for some fun on a circuit

GTRs only I know the S chassis would be good but I want a 6 meaning RB none of that VG stuff

There are plenty of parts available - you wont be stuck for choice. But the number of thing needing modiying and extensive modifications at that if you want to go properly fast is long.

By the way R32s GTR's dont really rust - you shouldnt have a problem with that. Dont know what your looking at, however.

Have you considered something with an RB25 in it? I know it's no GTR but much cheaper to race.

I don't think I could get rid of my GTR now as I love it but it's not a cheap car to mod.

This. For the cost of just buying a gtr you could have a built gtst that will blow the doors off a stock or mild gtr.

Yeah well I was probably overstating it a bit but it depends on what the original poster means by "fun". ..........

Hell I've been to track days and had a miserable time of it only to bump into someone loving life who is in much the same car, just 5 seconds a lap slower.

This is exactly me... I could come dead last on the time sheet, and be outdone by just about anyone in anything, and still have a stupid grin from ear to ear.

In some of the events I have entered, I have been competitive, and in others, woeful, but I enjoy it all the same. The work I have had done on the GTR is on par price-wise with the work I have had done on previously owned cars. As you said, it just comes down to what you want to do I guess.

I've owned 2 R32 GTRs. One was a peach and gave me no trouble at all. It was the second car I owned so I kinda knew the journey ahead and made good decisions re mods and maintenance. It was the best car I ever owned, and I sold it, to my lasting regret and only to see it come up for sale again with a haircut and dodgy fake stickers on it. It was only ever a fast road car and never saw the track. I still have my other 32R, which is heavily modified and that ownership experience has been a very expensive love hate thing. They are are very resource hungry car, and on the track they are heavy and powerful and everything gets stressed and will break unless you've sorted it. Oil management and brakes are your immediate drama on the track. Right now it sits in storage as I'm a little over it, but I love it too much to let it go and certainly I'd never sell it for the pittance I'd get today.

Go buy a 996 GT3 for $100k. You'll do everything you want with just tyres, pads and oil forever and then sell it for $90k when you're done. With the GTR you'll but it for $20k, spend $30k fixing it, and sell it for $20k and spend a lot of time being let down by it. Just got the find the $100k in the first place :)

If I had my time again I'd not buy a GTR. But perversely, I'm happy that I did...Work that out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...