Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls. I've currently owned my nissan for just over a year and have loved every minute of being in it though it has now came to the stage where i want some more power.

i live near cairns and there doesn't seem to be many people around here with the interest of doing some work for me. is there any where in cairns that someone has previously used to get work done? if so, where?

i have been quoted by SVS for some work, i would like an Apexi Power FC ECU, high flow turbo service and a simple tune done but he has priced me $5000 straight away. that seems a bit steep for such small upgrades is it not?

any help would be great

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443243-r33-gtst-upgrades-advice-please/
Share on other sites

That really depends what is actually involved

If its just a High flow turbo bolted in, a Power FC and a tune then its probably on the expensive side, but if they are going to fit injectors or anything else like that then ints probably O.K

It's hard to really say if its a good price because we dont know what turbo they are fitting and where they are getting the Power FC from and stuff like that

There's probably more to come. Is your car dead stock? You'll need a FMIC and better exhaust as well. An initial tune with new turbo, new afm and injectors etc will not be a simple tune but will take time to do properly. To soften the blow you could plan the upgrade and try to acquire all the gear yourself as cheaply as possible. Then get a price for the install and tune.

its not totally standard, i already have a bigger FMIC and have a 3 inch Zeigen system already fitted. As far as I'm aware its the stock turbo thats getting machined out and braided oil line etc too.

ill look into it more but thanks anyway for sharing your thoughts. i guess i do want to change to a bigger turbo, but that take its from being a smaller >&5000 job to anywhere over &10k!

Hypergear highflow ~$1000. Fuel pump ~$200. Injectors ~$700. AFM ~$300. Fitting all that lot only ~$200. PFC ~$1000. Tuning ~$800.

Even allowing for some decent profit margin you're only at the $5000 region for what you want. But not if it doesn't include the things on my list.

If you really want to upgrade your power you need to educate yourself so that you can answer your own question of "is this too much to pay?"

If you read sau youll find lots of options to modify for more power and not all options start at $5k...

I believe labour for fitting would be closer to $500 - $1000.

Would you Nistune rather than PFC ? $1400 (for board and tune).

That would also be obtaining your own parts and providing to your shop ^

(reducing the shops margin)

yeah i do plan on spending some time on this site to try and educate myself a bit better. i know the basics but I'm eager to learn in more detail.

i have no problem paying $5000 but i don't want to continue modifying my car and getting ripped off every time. i think i will source my own parts for this early stage of modifying. save some money now to put it back into it later on would be the smarter approach!

again thank you all for your help! very much appreciated!

I believe labour for fitting would be closer to $500 - $1000.

Would you Nistune rather than PFC ? $1400 (for board and tune).

That would also be obtaining your own parts and providing to your shop ^

(reducing the shops margin)

nistune for r33 ...don't forget he'll need to buy ideally the z32 ECU as well.

I believe labour for fitting would be closer to $500 - $1000.

Valid point. I wasn't thinking about the turbo when I was thinking how much to fit the rest of the stuff. Literally only take a couple of hours to fit the rest of the stuff though, so it wouldn't want to be expensive. The turbo will obviously add a few extra hours.

Still only in the $5k range though.

unfortunately it's often more cost effective to sell a stockish car and buy something quicker. Rather than spend money that you'll never see again. Having said that if you love the car then by all means go for it

Or do it yourself... I've been modifying my car for over 2 years now... 80% of the work is done by me and I'm not a qualified mechanic. This forums provides amazing DIY tutorials and you can also search on google and YouTube. There is also a copy of the service workshop manual floating around that provides you with detailed steps.

Speak to your tuner about the combination of parts you need, fit them yourself, then get it tuned.

i asked you where you are because if you are in auckland/waikato nz i don't mind helping out.

I'm from cairns mate. i appreciate your offer greatly though thanks!

I've started looking for my own parts, going to start with the following

550cc NISMO injectors

z32 AFM

Apexi Power FC ecu (can't seem to find any other than the ones on Ebay at $1400, is there any benefit of buying it without the hand controller?)

Hypergear High flow service (seen a lot of good reviews for this place)

also thinking about doing a clutch whilst I'm getting some work done, any recommendations?

$5G is pretty alright. Below is what I've spent with my R34, I did all the work my self.

Split fire coil packs: $650

650cc Jecs injectors: $500

Walbro fuel pump: $210

Adaptronic plug in ecu and hypergear bolton turbo bundle: $2400

GKteck cooler kit: $400

Total: $4160

Dyno tune was $650 on top. Car made 285rwkws on 20psi.

P.s: about $100 worth of silicon hoses and a pod for a 3inch hard intake pipe.

Edited by GeorgesR34

$5G is pretty alright. Below is what I've spent with my R34, I did all the work my self.

Split fire coil packs: $650

650cc Jecs injectors: $500

Walbro fuel pump: $210

Adaptronic plug in ecu and hypergear bolton turbo bundle: $2400

GKteck cooler kit: $400

Total: $4160

Dyno tune was $650 on top. Car made 285rwkws on 20psi.

P.s: about $100 worth of silicon hoses and a pod for a 3inch hard intake pipe.

that sounds aright! i must look into these DIY videos, worth a watch i think.

have looked at walbro pumps too, forgot to mention. what benefits/disadvantages would i get from going to even bigger injectors?

i thought 550cc would be enough no?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...