Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was wondering if anyone has used a stock Series 2 ecu in a series 1 R34GTT.

I have a series 1 R34GTT manual and want to install a series 2 ECU.

I know there was a torque increase in Series 2's and a few other changes, so I am wondering if the ECU was different as a result.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443530-r34-gtt-series-1-v-series-2-ecu/
Share on other sites

I have a Nistuned GTT ecu that's already been tuned for Air filter/interfcooler/exhaust and 12psi for sale for $400

For example you're better off buying something like that and then getting your afr checked on a dyno or even a touch up tune.

I really can't see any benefit in trying to chase a particular series ecu for little to no gains when you can have the car setup perfectly for its current time real world condition.

Reason i ask is because i currently have an impul ecu which is tuned for jap fuel i think. I bought a series 2 ecu to put in my car to avoid any issues driving using 98ron. I have however bought a series 2 ecu and wanted to check that it will work ok in a series 1 before i install it. Definitely didnt get it for the power increase in series 2. Just wanted to make sure it was compatible. Fron what i read the extra power in series 2 comes from revised cam shafts, and wanted to see if the ecu was revised to accomodate the cams. Cheers

Just letting you know from what I've found the s2 manual models have a different exhaust cam, compressor wheel and compressor housing compered to the auto s2 and all s1 models.

Would the different exhaust cam mean a different map in the ECU? Would this ECU still be ok for a Series 1, or is the tune very different?

Edited by Bugzs15

Most likely. Not sure if it will be ok for a series 1 and I don't know how different the tune is.

I recommend you get a tuneable ECU and tune it or pick the ECU that your engine came with from the factory if the car is stockish just for peace of mind.

ECU partnumbers:

http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=58:rb-ecu-part-numbers&catid=45:wiring-electrical-a-ecu&Itemid=23

ok, so i looked at My copy of nistune in relation to r34 ecu's as I was curious.

There are approx 6 different image files, and this is the biggst difference i could find quickly comparing them. Alot were identical.

The timing maps had a copule of spots with 1 or 2 degrees different, wouldnt matter at all.

this snip is comparing 2 fuel maps.

i would call them the same....

post-107339-0-54816600-1400826962_thumb.png

you can download nistune as a trial, load them up into the main and comp slot, then click the magnifying glass to compare.

Thanks very much for confirming everyone, looks like it will be good to use.

Hope this post helps anyone else with similar question in the future as a lot of ecu questions relate to R33, but not many for R34.

Just letting you know from what I've found the s2 manual models have a different exhaust cam, compressor wheel and compressor housing compered to the auto s2 and all s1 models.

I'd love to see some hard evidence that manual and auto have different exhaust cams and different turbos.

Series 1 are obviously different from Series 2. (compressor wheel from memory)

Edited by wolverine
  • Like 1

This is what I have found.

Exhaust cam on Nissan fast

August 2000 or newer (Manual only)

13020-AB000-

All other RB25DET Neo

13020-AA020-

Turbos on Nissan fast

August 2000 or newer (Manual only)

14411-AB000-

May 1998 to July 2000

14411-AA100-

July 2000 to August 2000

14411-AA110-

August 2000 or newer (Auto only)

14411-AA110-

Alternate part number for 14411-AA100- is 14411-AA110-

Also found

http://2style.net/r34sedan/hikaku/hikaku02.htm

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/69089-differences-between-r34-and-r33-turbo/#entry1527454

post-85181-0-45023400-1400904673_thumb.png

post-85181-0-14368500-1400904674_thumb.png

post-85181-0-90195100-1400904674_thumb.png

post-85181-0-91357400-1400904675_thumb.png

post-85181-0-84200600-1400904676_thumb.png

Edited by H4x

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...