Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i was wondering if its possible to jimmy a locked door on an r33?

I walked back to my car and my door was unlocked and my tablets were stolen (the only thing stolen actually) and i know it was locked cos i always double check it cos i keep tablets in the car for emergencies or if i carnt get home in time. So how did they unlock my door and how can i stop this from happening again cos these tablets are very important to me and now i dont have an emergency stash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/
Share on other sites

89cal - lighten up i wasnt asking how to break in or a step by step on how to break into a car.. geez

Ben - yeah thanks for tips

i have an alarm but i dont use it cos it keeps going off for no reason i need to adjust the sensors or something. Someone mentioned to me about the Valet thing, and this is the best idea, its perfect

Edited by Mick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7295540
Share on other sites

I wasn't trying to be too much of an asshole, but think about it

Someone wants to break into a skyline, Goes on google 'How to break into skyline', this thread comes up, then indirectly you have HELPED someone break into a car. Thats why its never a good idea to ask these things on a public forum. Go see someone who specialises in car alarms and security and they will be able to help.

I'm just trying to protect myself and others on here. I have an alarm but I don't want it to get to that stage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7295572
Share on other sites

putting your valuables into your boot and using the valet switch on the boot so that the boot lever beside your seat is disabled and only the key can open it really is the perfect solution for keeping valuables safe just in case someone actually gets in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7295725
Share on other sites

Update - my friend heard that someone was trying to sell the same medication that was stolen out of my car at the local pub close to where my car was parked so im going to try find out who it was tomorrow after my doctors appointment yay!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7296451
Share on other sites

yeah i need to get mine calibrated so it doesnt go off all the time, i spent $1600 on it so it is a good one, i have the car monitor which has an lcd puc of a car and if my alarm goes off it tells me and shows me what set it off like door open or ultrasonics or motion detect etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7296501
Share on other sites

6 of my kapanol and 2 of my old oxycontin. It may not seem like alot but they are very strict and keep close monitoring of them so it is so hard to save up some spares for emergencies, im very annoyed but I had my doctors the other day so i got my new lot so im happy, i have lower disc degeneration in my back and it gives me severe pain.

Edited by Mick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7299896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...