Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey :)

I just bought another Skyline- an R33 Series 2 Mspec manual for very cheap (even suspiciously too cheap) due to un ergo, hole in exhaust (came with new full stainless steel one), misfire at boost problem which they said prob coil packs and interior dash lights and indicators don't work. Picked it up tonight and of course as was cheap I figured there will be a fair few problems I would need to sort out which is of course to be expected.

Drives great except splutters and chokes itself under boost. So far all the intake pipes and throttle body are absolutely filthy and it stinks like contaminated oil where the throttle body connects and the a lot of the hoses are bad and cracking which is all fine I can deal with that but what worries me is this-

Every single spark plug hole has heaps of brown sludge and water in there :( a decent amount as well! The coil packs look like ass so of course will replace those and the spark plugs. Firstly, what is the best way to get the water and crap out before I pull the plugs? And does the sludge and crap sound like a head gasket??? Please tell me there is something else it could be!

I will take some pics soon! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Em

I pulled the spark plugs and there is no water or oil or anything down there so that's good right? It seems like water accumulated on top as there was mouse crap too and a cockroach leg lol but yeah nothing under spark plugs

Clean up the entire engine bay and vehicle. Have a really good look over it, - Decide if it is worth spending effort and money on

Are the chassis rails straight, any rust, steering components, tyre wear, brakes, oil/water/air leaks, lights

What info did the previous owner give you?

Have you done a fast and revs check?

If keeping

Give it a major service including a good engine flush (Liquid Molly or Wurths). All fluids, plugs, filters

Did you get any service records with it? When were the belts done including timing belt

then go through and list all the remaining obvious issues standing still, then take it for a drive and list any running issues. get an idea of parts and prices (does it scare you?)

if not attack them methodically/logically

What aftermarket mods including ECU?

For the In cabin, dash lights and indicators - verify all fuses and relays

Sludge is from leaking covers and water laying around

Being a 96 33 GTS-t I expect your young and your budget is minimal

As you said there is a reason some cars are cheap.

Some times you can get a gem that just hasn't been maintained

Edited by Sinista32

Hey Sinista,

Thanks for the info! Haha yes student at the moment so relatively tight budget but all my money ends up going on the cars so if it needs to be fixed it will usually be done!

Have a service history with log book etc it came over from NSW so have the dates for belt etc. Chassis is nice and straight surprisingly minimal rust it's quite clean.

I managed to replace spark plugs but its going to need new coil packs considering they were submerged in water and muck. I use liquid moly on all my cars so will be putting some of that through. I don't like the BOV I want to remove that for now and just put it back to stock as will need it for pits anyway. Ran OBD no codes which is boring, other parameters seem good but not relying on that!

Coolant system seems good but will flush anyway, oil looks good etc. the car was sitting for about a year only driven every month or so.

Mods are basic just the crappy rusty looking blitz BOV, boost tee (not a fan will be removing that), HKS rear muffler, cusco strut braces, apexi air intake, aftermarket suspension- mainly cosmetic.

Since cleaning throttle body and pipes the car will start straight away idle for a second and die. Going to have to see if I put a hose on the wrong way or something- could mega vac leaks cause that?? A lot of the hoses are suspicious!! I will take some photos now of how the BOV and boost tee have been set up its all weird to me as my other one was completely stock.

Sludge around the spark plugs simply means it's had an engine degrease by someone who was rather happy with the hose. This has screwed the plugs and coils. New coils and plugs and it will probably run well.

Exactly what I was thinking. Quite possibly had the valley cover off while cleaning and have since put it back on.

Does look pretty nice for a cheap one, series 2 as well so if its just coilpacks and plugs that need replacing id be more than happy with that

Thanks :) I reckon she is pretty hot it's worth more but he had too many cars and a newborn so he just needed it gone. Good thinking guys! I found out it was actually a degrease! Why wouldn't u cover up that area though?

It's driving so much better and haven't even replaced coil packs or exhaust yet!

lol scotty yeah I want to get rid of it, don't want to really waste a tune on it. I figure I will have the work out which wires have been spliced or cut and put them back into my stock ecu? ugh annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...