Jump to content
SAU Community

Water & Brown Sludge Etc In Spark Plug Holes :(

Emrarrr

By Emrarrr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
Posted

Hey :)

I just bought another Skyline- an R33 Series 2 Mspec manual for very cheap (even suspiciously too cheap) due to un ergo, hole in exhaust (came with new full stainless steel one), misfire at boost problem which they said prob coil packs and interior dash lights and indicators don't work. Picked it up tonight and of course as was cheap I figured there will be a fair few problems I would need to sort out which is of course to be expected.

Drives great except splutters and chokes itself under boost. So far all the intake pipes and throttle body are absolutely filthy and it stinks like contaminated oil where the throttle body connects and the a lot of the hoses are bad and cracking which is all fine I can deal with that but what worries me is this-

Every single spark plug hole has heaps of brown sludge and water in there :( a decent amount as well! The coil packs look like ass so of course will replace those and the spark plugs. Firstly, what is the best way to get the water and crap out before I pull the plugs? And does the sludge and crap sound like a head gasket??? Please tell me there is something else it could be!

I will take some pics soon! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Em

Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I pulled the spark plugs and there is no water or oil or anything down there so that's good right? It seems like water accumulated on top as there was mouse crap too and a cockroach leg lol but yeah nothing under spark plugs

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Clean up the entire engine bay and vehicle. Have a really good look over it, - Decide if it is worth spending effort and money on

Are the chassis rails straight, any rust, steering components, tyre wear, brakes, oil/water/air leaks, lights

What info did the previous owner give you?

Have you done a fast and revs check?

If keeping

Give it a major service including a good engine flush (Liquid Molly or Wurths). All fluids, plugs, filters

Did you get any service records with it? When were the belts done including timing belt

then go through and list all the remaining obvious issues standing still, then take it for a drive and list any running issues. get an idea of parts and prices (does it scare you?)

if not attack them methodically/logically

What aftermarket mods including ECU?

For the In cabin, dash lights and indicators - verify all fuses and relays

Sludge is from leaking covers and water laying around

Being a 96 33 GTS-t I expect your young and your budget is minimal

As you said there is a reason some cars are cheap.

Some times you can get a gem that just hasn't been maintained

Edited by Sinista32
Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Sinista,

Thanks for the info! Haha yes student at the moment so relatively tight budget but all my money ends up going on the cars so if it needs to be fixed it will usually be done!

Have a service history with log book etc it came over from NSW so have the dates for belt etc. Chassis is nice and straight surprisingly minimal rust it's quite clean.

I managed to replace spark plugs but its going to need new coil packs considering they were submerged in water and muck. I use liquid moly on all my cars so will be putting some of that through. I don't like the BOV I want to remove that for now and just put it back to stock as will need it for pits anyway. Ran OBD no codes which is boring, other parameters seem good but not relying on that!

Coolant system seems good but will flush anyway, oil looks good etc. the car was sitting for about a year only driven every month or so.

Mods are basic just the crappy rusty looking blitz BOV, boost tee (not a fan will be removing that), HKS rear muffler, cusco strut braces, apexi air intake, aftermarket suspension- mainly cosmetic.

Since cleaning throttle body and pipes the car will start straight away idle for a second and die. Going to have to see if I put a hose on the wrong way or something- could mega vac leaks cause that?? A lot of the hoses are suspicious!! I will take some photos now of how the BOV and boost tee have been set up its all weird to me as my other one was completely stock.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Sludge around the spark plugs simply means it's had an engine degrease by someone who was rather happy with the hose. This has screwed the plugs and coils. New coils and plugs and it will probably run well.

Exactly what I was thinking. Quite possibly had the valley cover off while cleaning and have since put it back on.

Does look pretty nice for a cheap one, series 2 as well so if its just coilpacks and plugs that need replacing id be more than happy with that

Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks :) I reckon she is pretty hot it's worth more but he had too many cars and a newborn so he just needed it gone. Good thinking guys! I found out it was actually a degrease! Why wouldn't u cover up that area though?

It's driving so much better and haven't even replaced coil packs or exhaust yet!

Emrarrr Enthusiast

Emrarrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol scotty yeah I want to get rid of it, don't want to really waste a tune on it. I figure I will have the work out which wires have been spliced or cut and put them back into my stock ecu? ugh annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...