Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey :)

I just bought another Skyline- an R33 Series 2 Mspec manual for very cheap (even suspiciously too cheap) due to un ergo, hole in exhaust (came with new full stainless steel one), misfire at boost problem which they said prob coil packs and interior dash lights and indicators don't work. Picked it up tonight and of course as was cheap I figured there will be a fair few problems I would need to sort out which is of course to be expected.

Drives great except splutters and chokes itself under boost. So far all the intake pipes and throttle body are absolutely filthy and it stinks like contaminated oil where the throttle body connects and the a lot of the hoses are bad and cracking which is all fine I can deal with that but what worries me is this-

Every single spark plug hole has heaps of brown sludge and water in there :( a decent amount as well! The coil packs look like ass so of course will replace those and the spark plugs. Firstly, what is the best way to get the water and crap out before I pull the plugs? And does the sludge and crap sound like a head gasket??? Please tell me there is something else it could be!

I will take some pics soon! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Em

I pulled the spark plugs and there is no water or oil or anything down there so that's good right? It seems like water accumulated on top as there was mouse crap too and a cockroach leg lol but yeah nothing under spark plugs

Clean up the entire engine bay and vehicle. Have a really good look over it, - Decide if it is worth spending effort and money on

Are the chassis rails straight, any rust, steering components, tyre wear, brakes, oil/water/air leaks, lights

What info did the previous owner give you?

Have you done a fast and revs check?

If keeping

Give it a major service including a good engine flush (Liquid Molly or Wurths). All fluids, plugs, filters

Did you get any service records with it? When were the belts done including timing belt

then go through and list all the remaining obvious issues standing still, then take it for a drive and list any running issues. get an idea of parts and prices (does it scare you?)

if not attack them methodically/logically

What aftermarket mods including ECU?

For the In cabin, dash lights and indicators - verify all fuses and relays

Sludge is from leaking covers and water laying around

Being a 96 33 GTS-t I expect your young and your budget is minimal

As you said there is a reason some cars are cheap.

Some times you can get a gem that just hasn't been maintained

Edited by Sinista32

Hey Sinista,

Thanks for the info! Haha yes student at the moment so relatively tight budget but all my money ends up going on the cars so if it needs to be fixed it will usually be done!

Have a service history with log book etc it came over from NSW so have the dates for belt etc. Chassis is nice and straight surprisingly minimal rust it's quite clean.

I managed to replace spark plugs but its going to need new coil packs considering they were submerged in water and muck. I use liquid moly on all my cars so will be putting some of that through. I don't like the BOV I want to remove that for now and just put it back to stock as will need it for pits anyway. Ran OBD no codes which is boring, other parameters seem good but not relying on that!

Coolant system seems good but will flush anyway, oil looks good etc. the car was sitting for about a year only driven every month or so.

Mods are basic just the crappy rusty looking blitz BOV, boost tee (not a fan will be removing that), HKS rear muffler, cusco strut braces, apexi air intake, aftermarket suspension- mainly cosmetic.

Since cleaning throttle body and pipes the car will start straight away idle for a second and die. Going to have to see if I put a hose on the wrong way or something- could mega vac leaks cause that?? A lot of the hoses are suspicious!! I will take some photos now of how the BOV and boost tee have been set up its all weird to me as my other one was completely stock.

Sludge around the spark plugs simply means it's had an engine degrease by someone who was rather happy with the hose. This has screwed the plugs and coils. New coils and plugs and it will probably run well.

Exactly what I was thinking. Quite possibly had the valley cover off while cleaning and have since put it back on.

Does look pretty nice for a cheap one, series 2 as well so if its just coilpacks and plugs that need replacing id be more than happy with that

Thanks :) I reckon she is pretty hot it's worth more but he had too many cars and a newborn so he just needed it gone. Good thinking guys! I found out it was actually a degrease! Why wouldn't u cover up that area though?

It's driving so much better and haven't even replaced coil packs or exhaust yet!

lol scotty yeah I want to get rid of it, don't want to really waste a tune on it. I figure I will have the work out which wires have been spliced or cut and put them back into my stock ecu? ugh annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
    • majority aftermarket is an10 yes, but majority of OEM is An12 r35 OEM cooler lines at close to an 12, the hard line that car uses is almost 20mm  Porsche OEM is also AN12   i figure, if our power levels are close to 1000hp, then AN12 should be a must if many OEM standard power vehicles use AN12
×
×
  • Create New...