Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive seen this brand at supercheap for while now. Today I decided to put some of the 10w30 cherokee semi synthetic in a barina. $33 for 5L. There's quite a selection of viscosities in both semi synth and full synth, at prices which are average or lower than competitors.

However I don't see a lot of reference to this oil on the net and I get the impression that it isn't selling much. Anyone else tried this stuff?

Ive used nulon 10w40 full synth exclusively in the stagea, but even when its on special at $45 I still think I could go for cheaper oil! Since there is a better selection than gulf western in terms of viscosities, I might use it for all the family cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443730-chief-oil/
Share on other sites

They have an oil called WRX. Cool.

Their office is near Maastricht? (Belgium/Netherlands border)

On the container it states that it's made in the Netherlands. The very american branding threw me off, ie, chief, chicasaw, cherokee, etc. It would probably be considered racially insensitive in america

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443730-chief-oil/#findComment-7296953
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Hi Mates!

Please note this oil is terrible...it disappears in around 5000 kms on a Subaru..I am talking well maintained healthy car and most of the cars. Came out as an experiment. That's why perhaps Supercheap has got rid of all of it. And I can't leave a review anymore. I would warn again6using this oil for other than top-up. Or keep an eye and keep roping up ...I am sure it's dodgy and there is something wrong with this product..it burns lime fuel...I am sure ..I  am collecting more evidence...I had to try to save others from trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443730-chief-oil/#findComment-7943239
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, Ankur said:

Hi Mates!

Please note this oil is terrible...it disappears in around 5000 kms on a Subaru..I am talking well maintained healthy car and most of the cars. Came out as an experiment. That's why perhaps Supercheap has got rid of all of it. And I can't leave a review anymore. I would warn again6using this oil for other than top-up. Or keep an eye and keep roping up ...I am sure it's dodgy and there is something wrong with this product..it burns lime fuel...I am sure ..I  am collecting more evidence...I had to try to save others from trouble.

Subaru is hardly a good example. They burn oil like crazy at the best of times

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443730-chief-oil/#findComment-7943243
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Lol @ the idiot OP shopping at supercheap.

OK, occasionally they have the odd decent item at a decent price, but mostly it's over-priced poor quality stuff.

Sometime soon after I must have switched to getting all my oil at costco, getting Nulon full synthetic around $7-8 per litre when on special. Get oil filters in bulk online, too. Barely set foot into supercheap auto anymore.

I ran that chief/cherokee stuff in a few econo cars and never had an issue, but just switched to nulon when I could get full synth stuff at the same price. I must have run the stagea on nulon for around a decade now, and the only difference I could remember is that some semi-synth stuff I used caused lifter noise at startup, went away after switching to Nulon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443730-chief-oil/#findComment-7945738
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...