Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya guys,

new to the forum and the skyline series.

I understand that there is a skyline offset thread but i have an exam that i need to study for and can't research.. i also cant sleep until i have a selected offset haha

I am thinking 18x9.5 fronts and 18x10.5 rears.

What offsets would fit my 33? I dont care if i have to run a little camber front and rear, and maybe even flare the rear guards by 15-30mm thats fine.

Any advice and pics would be great.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444149-wheel-offset-help-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Congratulation on the purchase of your new car.

I assume you managed that on your own without a thread spoon feeding you.

Don't be in a rush.

Problem solved.

Edited by Ben C34

+35 offset on 18 inch (235, 45, 18) wheels looks nice on skylines. The offset on most skylines is usually for brembo clearance though... Thats the only reason you'd actually worry about offset... the brake clearance. Not sure if they rub the guards or not on the GTST or GTS. Also camber = useless if you dont track your car, you will just end up with un-even wear man. But yea probs +40 max on 18s to be on the safe side (provided it isnt a GTR).


ooo And also, these guys do know a bloody f*** load about cars, they have a lot of experiences, wheels isnt really worth a discussion unless the situation is something unique, hence their responses :P Have a look through the forum, you will see very technical questions, things i dont even understand, and they answer it bloody well and true. But yea hope i helped you though, congrats on the car :)

Edited by Deza3000

The offset on most skylines is usually for brembo clearance though...

Nope. Offset doesn't determine brake clearance, spoke design does. Standard turbo Nissan wheels from the 90s are 6.5"+40. GT-R's are +30.

If the wheels are a non-dish style (e.g. Driftek) then the lower offset is an indicator that it has good brake clearance (because the spokes would concave in more). You will have to look at the wheel backspace, it differs depending on manufactures (e.g. Rays wheels have heaps off room, compared to say a BBS knockoff).

Offset determines where the wheel sits relative to the mounting surface.

  • Like 1

Nope. Offset doesn't determine brake clearance, spoke design does. Standard turbo Nissan wheels from the 90s are 6.5"+40. GT-R's are +30.

If the wheels are a non-dish style (e.g. Driftek) then the lower offset is an indicator that it has good brake clearance (because the spokes would concave in more). You will have to look at the wheel backspace, it differs depending on manufactures (e.g. Rays wheels have heaps off room, compared to say a BBS knockoff).

Offset determines where the wheel sits relative to the mounting surface.

Oh my mistake it does too! I just realized my spare tyre has a offset of +45 or something, but a bulgy convex spoke design for brake clearance, looks kinda retarded. Ive just always used offset to determine brake clearance haha. Then again i never buy deep dish wheels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...