Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm actually in the potential Skyline to Evo camp - but not by choice! I just had my perfect R34 GT-T stolen, and I feel despair at procuring and then modding/touching up another R34... especially as i feel that there are no 'nice' ones currently on the market (NSW/Sydney metro area). I loved having the boost hit hard, and i loved the RWD, which is why I may consider an S15 - but they just feel like a girls car compared to what i was in previously. Considering it's a daily, too, (4 doors, not particularly low suspension) I think a slightly newer Evo around the $20k mark may bring me more joy if I can't find a suitable Skyline (It would have to be perfect and a bargain for me to go interstate/import myself).

The only way to solve the Evo Skyline debacle is to buy one of each and see which one you spend the most time in . My bet is the Skyline will do more miles but you won't want to part with the Evo ...

A .

More maintenance with the EVO you constabtly need to flush out the AYC pump and bleed it to keep it happy.

So you'll tend to drive the EVO less, the Skyline however is like a camel runs on barely anything and keeps on going thus you'll prefer to drive that more and most importantly the Skyline has a larger fuel tank.

One thing I like about the EVO is how small and easy the engine bay is to work on - injectors, turbo, piping all looks easier to do than a large RB25 with its cross-over pipe and general engine layout etc..

But it does look like a pumped-up lancer in n out, its huge wing and nasty engine note screams I'm rice! haha..

You can ditch the AYC for the RS mechanically simpler lighter stronger mechanical LSD . Just keep the pump for the ACD in 7/8/9 . The Americans cry because USDM 8s and 9s only got the non active centre and rear diffs . I think they did get RS model 8s and 9s with mechanical rear LSds , don't know what their GSRs got probably viscous rear .

Funny actually , Mitsy turned the LSD plates around in their RS cars so they basically don't work . If they don't chatter they don't attract complaints in dealerships .

9s got a larger fuel tank and possibly some 8s as well . 4/5/6 were Grp A homologation models and they were trying to keep them light , racers no doubt used a fuel cell anyway .

The 7s just saw a dabble in WRC class but they gave up trying to compete with the kit cars WRC rules allowed . GT4 in a Corolla anyone ?

WRC killed off production based Rally cars just like "Nascar" here killed off production based tarmac racing in Grp A .

A .

  • Like 1

The manufacturers loved it because they never made money out of the special production cars anyway . Not so good for petrol heads .

It allowed the change to Bogun spec-tater racing because beer swilling knuckle abuser isn't interested in the details , it looks like his Falcadore so as long as its wiping its arse over the neighbours heap of shit he can hold his head high above the pie all down his chest .

Tater money is what finances this "motorsport" and without money all motorsport stalls .

A .

  • Like 2

But wouldn't you say it had some reverse effect too. With the global group A racing wouldn't a an enthusiast be more inclined to buy a up-spec model knowing it had the DNA of those on the track? Rather than the V8 supercars and NASCAR where the enthusiast knows has nothing in common with the consumer product? Just thinking out aloud here.

Waiting for someone to say the gtr was banned. ..

As much as I love group A cars....have any of you watched the racing? It was boring as bat shit in the end.

The fia pulled the pin on group A. So we needed a touring car series.....what should they have done instead?

Waiting for someone to say the gtr was banned. ..

As much as I love group A cars....have any of you watched the racing? It was boring as bat shit in the end.

The fia pulled the pin on group A. So we needed a touring car series.....what should they have done instead?

True to a point. The sierras started the downward spiral. However I do have fond memories of the group A. However in saying that it was awesome seeing the volvos, bmw, nissans, jags , holdens and Ford's rubbing shoulders. And the advantages each had on different tracks.. I think with better management it could have worked and thrived. Maybe

One thing I like about the EVO is how small and easy the engine bay is to work on - injectors, turbo, piping all looks easier to do than a large RB25 with its cross-over pipe and general engine layout etc..

Not true.

Having built one from the ground up and changed clutches, timing belts and turbos on a dozen others I can definitely say they are NOT as nice and easy to work on as the old Skyline is. You are in for a world of butt pain if this is a deciding factor in buying the said EVO.

Anyway, your motives are as clear as mud and this thread puts the imagine of a peacock into my mind. A peacock standing on the roof of a skyline showing its EVO colours.. Just do the poor skyline some justice and sell it to someone who will actually drive it. Once you get the EVO you can go as far as removing the wing if it gets in the way of your shopping, etc.

I say this with love <3

  • Like 1

Lancer Evolutions should be called Rice-car Evolution.

Oh so you are back to being Skyline man again? Come out and lets go race our 290kw Nissans! Pick a 3 lane road at least though as mine takes up 2 in the first 3 gears.

I can't wait, it's been 2 years and I am yet to drive it. Hopefully the transfer case lasts the drive home at least. :P

Looks like a weapon! I hate EVO transfer cases with a passion :) Particularly the later ones, the bearings seem to be made of bluetac.

I can't wait, it's been 2 years and I am yet to drive it. Hopefully the transfer case lasts the drive home at least. :P

:O

That thing actually exists.

:P

Bogun racing out here consisted of people who could not believe that the big Aussie Ate Olden or Ford were so out classed by the other brands . Nissan and Ford Sierras were living proof that cars with shitty little ingines and shellas hair dryers were blitzing their big dick extensions . Hence the bull shit bull shit at the mountain back in 92 (beerish for bo gun bo gun) ..

Production based racers are a double edged sword because mainstream models that make manufacturers money are not race like at all . The vast majority don't like cars with race traits because they are not comfortable easy relaxing things to drive . Most tarted up performance cars today are "sporty" rather than sporting - there is a difference and the GTt Evo thing is a good example .

Lets say you get the best standard sport spec Gtt and then grab the equivalent era Evo and go belt them around Mt Panorama . They have on paper the same power (206 Kw) and probably similar weight , Gtt possibly a bit heravier than a 6 GSR . Assuming the same driver and the same conditions I think the 6 would lap faster than the Gtt on the same tyres . I reckon the Gtt would cook up faster than the 6 because of its more modest intercooling and oil cooling . The Gtt would be harder on its tyres and the 6 I reckon would go a lot deeper under brakes because they are larger .

So there you go , one is a tamed down rally basis and the other is a warmed up road car .

More people would prefer the Gtt as a daily road car because that's what it was designed to be . I think more honest track day users would prefer the Evo because that's more towards its intended purpose . I'm sorry if this offends but serious drivers who are focused totally on performance and handling prefer cars like Evos because the comfort compromises are an annoyance to them . They are bent on pure function and a small minority amongst all road users .

The hectic skids and using more than one lane to aim the boat down the river is something else again , Evos aren't as good at that and if its important auto V8 barges probably do it best .

A .

For what you buy an Evo or GTt for they are better value for money than more current exotics . The average person isn't even going to consider the above .

yup, another reason I own a R33 GTS-t with rust and 500000+ kms with a dash that says 143000km LOL

Wonder which dealer hairdressed the car :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...